Handle, fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn woven stretch fabrics
Handle, fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn woven stretch fabrics
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DOI：
10.1007/s12221-016-5561-5
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发表时间：
2016-04
影响因子：
2.5
通讯作者：
Nirmala Varghese;G. Thilagavathi
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
Nirmala Varghese;G. Thilagavathi
采用真丝与锦纶包覆莱卡纱加捻生产混纺纱。以20 D真丝为经纱，以混纤纱为纬纱，开发了用于纱丽衫的光泽弹力织物。丝绸和混合纱线织物生产在三个不同的组织，即平原，绉和棉缎。深入研究了织物组织对热舒适性、低应力力学性能、总手感值和拉伸性能的影响。采用三种不同的弹性织物面料制作了9件（3件样品× 3件图）女衬衫，进行了合体性评价和客观压力舒适性测试。分析了织物组织、低应力力学性能、总手感值和拉伸性能对真丝/混纺弹力织物合体性和压力舒适性的影响。真丝/混纺纱缎纹弹力织物具有较高的总手感值、拉伸性能和较好的热舒适性能。缎纹和绉织弹性面料提供了良好的适应。在站立位和不同姿势下，缎纹织物在所有身体部位施加的服装压力值较低，范围为3-12 mmHg。
Hybrid yarn was produced by twisting silk with nylon covered lycra yarn. Silk of 20 D in warp and hybrid yarn in weft was woven to develop lustrous woven stretch fabrics for sari blouse. Silk and hybrid yarn fabrics were produced in three different weaves namely plain, crepe and sateen. An in-depth study was carried out to understand the effect of weave on thermal comfort; low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties. Nine blouses (3 samples× 3 figures) were constructed from three different woven stretch materials for fit assessment and objective pressure comfort test. The effect of fabric weave, low stress mechanical properties, total hand value and stretch properties on fit and pressure comfort of silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabrics were analyzed. Sateen weave silk/hybrid yarn stretch fabric shows higher total hand value, stretch properties and better thermal comfort properties. Sateen and crepe weave stretch fabrics provided good fit. Sateen weave fabric exerted lower clothing pressure value in the range of 3-12 mmHg at all body locations in standing position and in different postures.