Individual Pattern Making Using Computerized Draping Method for Clothing
Individual Pattern Making Using Computerized Draping Method for Clothing
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DOI：
10.1177/0040517506066966
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发表时间：
2006-08
影响因子：
2.3
通讯作者：
Youngsook Cho;T. Komatsu;S. Inui;M. Takatera;Y. Shimizu;Hyejun Park
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
Youngsook Cho;T. Komatsu;S. Inui;M. Takatera;Y. Shimizu;Hyejun Park
消费者要求服装产品更加多样化和个性化。个性化包括设计服装时不仅要考虑尺寸的变化，还要考虑体型本身的变化。传统的分级方法是目前服装行业的标准尺码系统。它从一个基本尺寸开始，然后按比例分级以创建多组尺寸。尽管它适用于有限数量的尺寸，但该方法不包括体型的变化。在我们的研究中，我们通过修改传统的立体裁剪系统开发了一种个性化图案制作方法，使其可以与现代三维建模技术结合使用。个性化打版是指为个人量身定制打版。该方法采用五步悬垂工艺。步骤为：(1)定义表面形状； (2)设置纹理； (3)使织物贴合表面形状； (4)三维曲面的切割； (5)将三维贴合的织物发展成二维图案。当超过织物与表面贴合能力的极限角度时，我们的贴合过程可以防止或控制屈曲。我们使用计算几何模型而不是物理模型来完成整个过程。因此，我们相信它有可能比其他技术更有效、更简单。当我们使用这种方法制作紧身裙的图案时，我们可以使用这种开发方法轻松自动创建复杂的曲线。当测试对象将我们的裙子与传统设计的裙子进行比较时，大约 80% 的受试者表示更喜欢我们的裙子。虽然本文的重点是为假人制作的图案，但我们未来的研究将侧重于适合真实的人体形状。
The consumer is demanding more variety and personalization in apparel products. Personalization includes creating clothing that not only takes into account of variations in size, but also variations of the body shape itself. The traditional grading method is the current standard sizing system in the apparel industry. It starts with a base size which is then proportionally graded to create a multiple set of sizes. Although it caters for a limited number of sizes, this method does not include variations in body shape. In our research, we have developed a method of individual pattern making by modifying a traditional draping system so that it can be used in conjunction with modern three-dimensional modeling techniques. Individualized pattern making means customized pattern making for individuals. This method uses a five-step draping process. The steps are: (1) defining the surface shape; (2) setting grainlines; (3) fitting the fabric to the surface shape; (4) cutting of the three-dimensional surfaces; and (5) developing the three-dimensionally fitted fabric into a two-dimensional pattern. Our fitting process prevents or controls buckling when the limit angle of a fabric’s ability to conform to a surface is exceeded. We do this entire process using computed geometrical models, rather than physically. Therefore we believe it has the potential to be more efficient and simple than other techniques. When we used this method to make a pattern for a tight skirt, we easily created complex curved lines automatically using this development method. When test subjects compared our skirt with a traditionally designed skirt, approximately 80% of the subjects indicated a preference for our skirt. Although this paper focuses on patterns made for dummies, our future research will focus on fitting to real human body shapes.