Infragravity rip current pulsations
Infragravity rip current pulsations
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次重力裂流脉动
DOI：
10.1029/2003jc002068
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发表时间：
2004
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
T. Stanton
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
J. MacMahan;A. Reniers;E. Thornton;T. Stanton
[1]离岸流脉动的起源在亚重力频带（0.004-0.04 Hz）内，通过部署在有持续离岸流通道的海滩上的压力和速度传感器阵列的测量确定。观测结果表明，由于裂口通道的存在，沿海岸的亚重力速度在空间上存在显著的能量变化。由于水深的差异，裂口通道内的亚重力速度要小于与海岸相连的浅滩。在次重力频率下的裂口流脉动与持续的次重力运动有关，但与波群泵送的积水和随后的水释放无关。
[1] The origins of rip current pulsations within the infragravity frequency band (0.004–0.04 Hz) are determined from measurements made with arrays of colocated pressure and velocity sensors deployed on a beach with persistent rip current channels. The observations indicate significant energy in cross-shore infragravity velocities that varies spatially in the alongshore due to the presence of rip channels. Infragravity velocities are smaller within the rip channel than on the shore-connected shoal owing to differences in water depth. Rip current pulsations at infragravity frequencies are linked to standing infragravity motions but not to the ponding and subsequent release of water by wave group pumping.