Longshore sediment transport rates on a reef-fronted beach: Field data and empirical models Kaanapali Beach, Hawaii
Longshore sediment transport rates on a reef-fronted beach: Field data and empirical models Kaanapali Beach, Hawaii
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发表时间:
2003
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通讯作者:
D. Eversole;C. Fletcher
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作者:
D. Eversole;C. Fletcher
Longshore sediment transport (LST) measured at monthly beach profiles on Kaanapali Beach, Maui is compared to three predictive models. We observe cumulative net sediment transport rates of approximately 29,379 ±4400 m 3 /yr to the north and 22,358 ±1300 m 3 /yr to the south for summer and winter respectively. Kaanapali Beach experiences a net annual rate of 7,021 ±700 m 3 /yr to the north and a gross annual rate of 51,736 ±5100 m 3 /yr. Transport models, namely CERC (1984), CERC, 1991 (GENESIS) and KAMPHIUS (1991) predict net annual LST rates at 3 × 10 3 percent, 77 percent and 6 × 10 3 percent of the observed rates respectively. The success of the Genesis model is attributed to its ability to account for short-term changes in near-shore parameters. The use of CERC (1984) is prone to practical errors in its application including use of the recommended K coefficient and wave averaging that may significantly overestimate LST. The use of KAMPHIUS (1991) is more sensitive to beach slope and wave period than CERC (1984) and may over-predict transport on steep sloped beaches with high wave energy. Presence of fringing reef significantly affects the ability of LST models to accurately predict sediment transport. When applying CERC (1984, 1991) and KAMPHIUS (1991) formulas, functional beach profile area available for sediment transport is assumed much larger than actually exists in Kaanapali. None of the models evaluated account for the presence of a reef system. This may contribute to overestimations of LST as they assume the entire profile is mobile sediment. However, the fact that CERC (1991) underestimates the observed transport implies that environmental parameters employed in these models (such as wave height, direction and period) play a more substantial role than the influence of the reef in model results.