Avtobusniki: Russian Orthodox Pilgrims’ Longing for Authenticity
Avtobusniki: Russian Orthodox Pilgrims’ Longing for Authenticity
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阿夫托布斯尼基：俄罗斯东正教朝圣者对真实性的渴望
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发表时间：
2010
期刊：
影响因子：
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通讯作者：
Kormina Jeanne
中科院分区：
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作者：
Kormina Jeanne
“我们进入了如此古老的时代[斯塔琳娜]！真正的俄罗斯，鲁斯！我喜欢的是--简单的人们站在那里。他们卖的馅饼每个只卖3卢布。。。一切都在简单的凳子上。这些人都是Seto。现在只剩下九百个了。他们还卖苹果--一碗只卖1卢布。人们可以自己选择它们。。。。10月4日和5日，我在那里，只有两天。我觉得我好像有一个星期的假期。在这条路上，人们可以看到。。。大自然，这些气味，还有我们不平衡的灰色小村舍[izbushechki]。。。我了解到，当看着我们的俄罗斯风景时，眼睛会非常放松。。。。当接近这座城市时，在我看来，我们似乎正在驶入地狱本身。烟囱烟、广告、烟草烟。天哪!我们把车开到哪里去了，掉进了一个坑里。这是维拉说的，她是一名50岁出头的妇女，在圣彼得堡的一家小出版社当清洁工。我通过一位在同一组织工作的朋友的朋友找到了维拉，并向我推荐了维拉，认为她是一名经验丰富的朝圣者，一个喜欢谈论她的旅行并就宗教事务向人们提供建议的人。事实证明，这些建议是值得的。自1996年第一次前往佩切里和伊兹博尔斯克(普斯科夫省)以来，维拉确实参加了20多次朝圣活动，这是上述回忆的主题。她欣然接受了采访，但在确定见面地点方面存在问题。维拉不想邀请我去她家，因为她的丈夫嘲笑她的宗教激进主义，而且，我后来听说，她是一个酗酒者。她不想在她工作的地方见面，因为她在那里的地位很低。我建议我们在她的教堂见面，但她说她不是任何特定教区的成员。像许多新东正教一样
“We got into such antiquity [starina]! Real Russia, Rus’! What I liked—it was simple folk standing there. They were selling pies for just three rubles each . . . everything on simple stools. The people were Seto. There are only nine hundred of them left. And they also sold apples—only one ruble for a bowl. One could choose them oneself. . . . I was there on the 4 and 5 of October, only two days. I felt as if I had a week of vacation. Along the way one could see . . . nature, these smells, and our lopsided little grey village cottages [izbushechki] . . . I have learned that eyes relax very well while looking at our Russian landscape. . . . And when approaching the city, it seemed to me that we were driving into hell itself. Chimney smoke, advertisements, tobacco smoking. My God! Where did we drive, into a kind of a pit.” These were the words of Vera, a woman in her early fifties who was working as a cleaner in a small publishing house in St. Petersburg. I found Vera through a friend of a friend who worked at the same organization and recommended Vera to me as an experienced pilgrim and a person who loved talking about her travels and giving advice to people on religious matters. The recommendations proved worthwhile. Vera had indeed participated in more than two dozen pilgrimages since her first trip to the towns of Pechery and Izborsk (Pskov province) in 1996, the subject of the above recollections. She readily agreed to an interview, but there was a problem in identifying a place to meet. Vera did not want to invite me to her home because her husband ridiculed her religious activism and, as I heard later, was a heavy drinker. She did not want to meet at her working place, where she held a position of low prestige. I suggested that we met at her church, but she said she was not a member of any particular parish. Like many new Orthodox