FUTURE DEVELOPMENTS IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS
FUTURE DEVELOPMENTS IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS
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DOI：
10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00045.x
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发表时间：
1992-01-01
影响因子：
2.3
通讯作者：
TADROS T F
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
TADROS T F
近年来，微乳、脂质体(囊)和多重乳剂在化妆品中的应用引起了人们的极大兴趣。这些系统将为化妆品行业提供更容易应用、更好的功能效益和潜在更安全的新型配方。微乳液是热力学稳定的体系，因此保质期不成问题。许多化妆品成分可以在微乳液的膨胀胶束中充分增溶。这种增溶体系可通过各种屏障(如皮肤)增强传输和扩散，从而增强制剂的功效。然而，微乳可能会破坏角质层的液晶结构，从而引起皮肤刺激。这个问题可以通过配制微乳液来解决，微乳液在蒸发时会产生层状液晶结构。当然，使用脂质体或囊泡可以减少或消除皮肤刺激的问题，这提供了微乳的替代方案。本文讨论了囊泡的形成和稳定的原理，以及利用可聚合表面活性剂从脂质体中制备纳米胶囊的研究工作。水/油/水(w/o/w)或油/水/油(o/w/o)类型的多重乳液也是配制化妆品的有价值的体系。首先，它们提供了一种持续释放各种成分的手段。其次，它们允许人们分离配方中的各种成分，从而防止它们可能发生的相互作用。总结了制备稳定的多重乳状液所需的基本原理。聚合物表面活性剂的发展导致了稳定的多重乳液的形成。文中给出了一种新近配制的稳定的W/O/W复乳的实例。用光学显微镜研究了该体系的稳定性。乳状物在储存时发生，特别是在高温(40度)下。C)加入Kelzan(一种高相对分子质量的多糖)可显著降低这一比例。采用流变学技术对最终处方进行了研究。
In recent years, there have been a great deal of interest in applications of microemulsions, liposomes (vesicles) and multiple emulsions in cosmetic formulations. These systems will provide the cosmetic industry with new types of formulations which are easier to apply, better functional benefit and potentially safer formulations. Microemulsions are thermodynamically stable systems and hence shelf life is no problem. Many cosmetic ingredients can be adequately solubilized in the swollen micelles of the microemulsions. Such solubilized systems may enhance transport and diffusion through various barriers, eg., the skin, thus enhancing the efficacy of the formulations. However, microemulsions may cause skin irritation by disrupting the liquid crystalline structure of the stratum corneum. This problem may be overcome by formulating microemulsions, which on evaporation produce lamellar liquid crystalline structures. The problem of skin irritation is certainly reduced or eliminated using liposomes or vesicles, which offer an alternative to microemulsions. The principles for formation and stabilization of vesicles are discussed in this paper and research work is needed to produce nanocapsules from liposomes, using polymerizable surfactants. Multiple emulsions of the water/oil/water (w/o/w) or oil/water/oil (o/w/o) types are also valuable systems for formulating cosmetics. In the first place, they offer a mean of sustained release of the various ingredients. Secondly, they allow one to separate the various ingredients in the formulation, thus preventing their possible interaction. The basic principles required for preparations of stable multiple emulsions are summarised. Developments of polymeric surfactants led to the formulation of stable multiple emulsions. An example of a recently formulated stable w/o/w multiple emulsion is given in this paper. This stability of the system was investigated using optical microscopy. Creaming occurred on storage, particularly at high temperature (40.degree. C) and this was significantly reduced by addition of Kelzan (a polysaccharide with high molecular weight). The final formulation was studied rheological techniques.