INVESTIGATIONS ON HYDRAILIC FORCES DUE TO CURRENT INCLUDING CORAL PIECES ACCOMPANIED BY BREAKDER AT REEF FRONT AND WAVE DAMPING EFFECT OF SEA BEDWITH GROUP OF CORAL BLOCKS

礁前碎屑伴珊瑚片洋流水力及珊瑚块群海底波浪阻尼效应研究

• 批准号: 05680373
• 负责人: TSUKAYAMA Seiko
• 金额: $ 1.28万
• 依托单位: UNIVERSITY OF THE RYUKYUS
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (C)
• 财政年份: 1993
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 1993 至 1994
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/en/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-05680373/
• 关键词: Force of current due to breaker16FA02 : Wave current in reef coast; Wave damping effect of sea bed; Group of coral blocks; Coefficient of wave transmission; 波浪減衰係数; 波郎減衰効果; 波郎減衰係数

The investigation carried out through field observations, model experiments and theoretical analysis. Main results of this investigation can be summerised as follws ;(1) It is clarified after fied observations on reef coasts under typhoon conditions that the wave heights reduce exponencially with traveling from the breaking point in front of reef to seashores, and shown good agreement with caluculated result by the formula suggested by the authors, where with the value of oefficients of the formula decided as function of relative depth to incident wave heights in the sea coast.(2) The mechanical process of breaking waves result in violent current at the reef front have been clarified experimentally, and the currents are categorised in two types according to the patern of wave breaking of spilling or plunging breaker.(3) Experimentallly, it has been clarified that wave damping effects of the sea bed with coral blocks depend on not only usual frictional effect of the sea bed, but also the effects of form resistance of coral blocks due to wakes that occure behind each block. The experimental results were verified by comparison with the fields observations.

调查通过实地观察、模型试验和理论分析进行。本次调查的主要结果可以总结如下：(1)通过对台风条件下的礁滩观测，明确了浪高从礁滩前的断点向海岸方向呈指数下降，并与作者提出的公式的计算结果吻合较好，其中，公式的系数值作为相对深度与海岸入射浪高的函数。(2)实验明确了破波在礁滩前缘形成强流的力学过程，并根据破波方式将其分为溢出型和俯冲型两种类型。(3)实验表明，具有珊瑚块的海床的波浪阻尼效应不仅取决于海床的通常摩擦效应，还取决于每个珊瑚块后面发生的尾迹对珊瑚块形成阻力的影响。实验结果与野外观测结果进行了比较。

项目成果

Eizo NAKAZA,Seiko TSUKAYAMA and Satoshi TANAKA: "Studies on Long-period Wave and Surf-Beat in Reef Coast" Proceedings of Coastal Engineering in Japan, JSCE. Vol.41. 86-90 (1994)

Eizo NAKAZA、Seiko Tsukayama 和 Satoshi TANAKA：“礁石海岸长周期波浪和海浪拍打研究”日本海岸工程会议录，JSCE。

Sekio TSUKAYAMA and Eizo NAKAZA18GB02 : Wave Damping Effect of Sea Bed with Group of Reef Blocks: Bulletin of the Faculty of Engineering, University of the Ryukyus. No.48. 31-39 (1994)

Sekio Tsukayama 和 Eizo NAKAZA18GB02：礁块群海床的波浪阻尼效应：琉球大学工程学院通报。

仲座 栄三,津嘉山 正光,田仲 聡: "リ-フ海岸における波・サーフビ-トに関する研究" 海岸工学論文集. 第41. 86-90 (1994)

Eizo Nakaza、Masamitsu Tsukayama、Satoshi Tanaka：“礁石海岸的波浪和冲浪节拍研究”海岸工程论文。 41. 86-90 (1994)

津嘉山正光・仲座栄三: "サンゴ岩塊群の波浪減衰効果に関する研究" 琉球大学工学部紀要. 第48号. 31-39 (1994)

Masamitsu Tsukayama 和 Eizo Nakaza：“珊瑚岩体的波浪衰减效应研究”琉球大学工学部通报第 48. 31-39 (1994)。