Wave-Structure-Bottom Interaction in Nearshore Zone

建造了许多海岸建筑物，以减弱海浪条件，提供生产、交通或娱乐设施，防止海滩侵蚀和吸引泥沙。然而，其中一些遭到破坏，一些引发了环境恶化。这些意想不到的结果主要是由于缺乏对海底对近岸海浪和海流反应的适当评估造成的。波浪与海床之间以及结构与海床之间的相互作用，对海岸结构物的设计来说是很重要的，但还鲜为人知，但通过变换随机波场、困难的孔压测量以及整合从流体力学到土力学的广泛知识的必要性，使之变得复杂。提出了近岸海岸结构物设计的方法，包括：(1)随机波浪的变换模型，(2)破碎后波浪运动的数值模型，(3)考虑海床响应的海岸结构物稳定设计。

Many coastal structures have been constructed to attenuate wave condition, to provide production, transportation or recreational facilities and to prevent beach erosion and attract sediment. However, some of them were damaged and some triggered environmental deterioration. These unexpected results are caused mainly by the lack of appropriate evaluation of seabed response to nearshore waves and currents. The interactions between wave and seabed, and between a structure and seabed, which are thus important to design of coastal structures yet little known, are complicated by transforming random wave field, by difficult pore pressure measurement, and by necessity of integrating a broad range of knowledge from fluid mechanics to soil mechanics. We propose to develop the methodology to design coastal structures in the nearshore zone which includes: (1) transformation model for random waves, (2) numerical model to estimate wave motion after breaking, (3) taking account of the seabed response is required to perform the stabilizing coastal structures.