Measurement of hydrographic condition in shallow water region by local remote sensing and analysis of interaction between fluid motion and topography change.

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Wave field. nearshore current and bottom topography in the developing and decaying processes rip channel were measured. Through the analysis of these results, it is found that positive feedback must be exists among incident wave, nearshore current and topography change. This positive feedback is easily spoiled by the increase in wave height and/or the change in wave direction. It is also found that wave and current field have to be analyzed in the region at least ten times to a few dozens of times wider than the breaker zone for predicting the generation of the positive feedback.