DEVELOPMENT OF NUMERICAL SIMULATION METHOD FOR DYNAMIC INTERACTION AMONG WAVE-CURRENT-PERMEABLE BEACH AND APPLICATION TO ESTIMATION OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGE

在七市三滨田海滩安装了网络摄像头监控系统。提出了利用相机图像检测海岸线的新方法，讨论了海岸线变化特征与入射波特性的关系。本研究发展了完全非线性直接数值模拟方法，并将其应用于波流共存流场的模拟。结果表明，密度分布对流场有影响，人工鱼礁对平均水面和流场有影响。此外，本文还对梯形土丘的输沙情况进行了研究，发现波浪作用下的剖面变化可以用本文提出的数值方法来估计。

Web camera monitoring system has been installed in Shichiri-mihama Ida beach. New detecting method of a shoreline from camera image has been proposed and characteristic of shoreline change was discussed in relation with incident wave properties. Fully nonlinear direct numerical simulation method has been developed in this study and applied to simulate flow field where wave and current co-exist. Results show that the density profile affects on the flow field and that artificial reef has an influence of mean surface level and flow field. Also sediment transport on the trapezoidal mound has been investigated and it was found that profile change due to wave can be estimated by the numerical method proposed in this study.