A field study of shore break characteristics on beaches of a fringing reef

岸礁海滩岸溃特征的实地研究

• 批准号: 22500990
• 负责人: AOKI Hisashi
• 金额: $ 1.66万
• 依托单位: Daito Bunka University
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)
• 财政年份: 2010
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 2010 至 2012
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-22500990/
• 关键词: 海岸地形学; サンゴ礁; 裾礁; 砕波波高; 遡上波到達高度; 波高減衰; 沖縄; 海岸地形; 暴浪; 遡上波高度

Field observations were carried out on beaches of a fringing reef in Okinawa Island, Japan to investigate the relationship between the shore break height (the height of final breaking waves near the shoreline), the reef width and wave height at the reef edge. A supplementary laboratory experiment was also conducted. The ratio of the shore break height to the wave height at the reef edge, Hb/H’, which denotes the degree of the reduction of wave height on a reef, was found to decrease with increasing reef width, W, and to decrease with decreasing water depth at the reef edge, h. Data analysis showed that Hb/ H’decreases with increasing W/h. This result indicates that the reduction of wave height on a reef is greatly controlled by morphological featuresof a fringing reef.

对日本冲绳岛岸礁的海滩进行了实地观测，研究了岸破高度（靠近海岸线的最终破浪高度）、礁体宽度和礁体边缘波高之间的关系。还进行了补充实验室实验。岸折高度与礁缘波高之比 Hb/H’ 表示礁体波高减小的程度，随着礁体宽度 W 的增加而减小，随着礁体边缘水深 h 的减小而减小。数据分析表明，Hb/H'随着W/h的增加而降低。这一结果表明，礁体波高的减小很大程度上受岸礁形态特征的控制。

项目成果

A study of rocky coast evolution: with special reference to Type-B platform development in Japan

岩石海岸演化研究：特别参考日本 B 型平台开发

• 发表时间: 2013
• 期刊: D. Kennedy, W. Stephenson and L. Naylor (eds.) Rock Coast Geomorphology: A Global Synthesis. Geological Society of London
• 作者: Tsuguo Sunamura;Hidekazu Tsujimoto;and Hisashi Aoki
• 通讯作者: and Hisashi Aoki

沖縄島のサンゴ礁海岸に襲来する暴浪波はどこまではい上がるのか

冲击冲绳岛珊瑚礁海岸的猛烈海浪能升到多高？

• 发表时间: 2012
• 期刊: 沖縄地理学会会報
• 作者: Tsuguo Sunamura;Hidekazu Tsujimoto;and Hisashi Aoki;中国研究所編(共著);青木賢人;高岡貞夫;青木久
• 通讯作者: 青木久

A study of rock coast evolution - with special reference to Type-B platform development in Japan. D. Kennedy, W. Stephenson and L. Naylor (eds.) "RockCoast Geomorphology: A Global Synthesis."

岩石海岸演化研究——特别参考日本的 B 型平台开发。

• 发表时间: 2013
• 期刊: Geological Society ofLondon
• 作者: T. Sunamura;H. Tsujimoto and H. Aoki
• 通讯作者: H. Tsujimoto and H. Aoki

サンゴ礁海浜における暴浪波の遡上限界高度:沖縄島の観測結果

珊瑚礁海滩暴风雨的最大上升高度：冲绳岛的观测结果

• 发表时间: 2011
• 作者: 青木 久