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近代東京の注染図案制作にみる江戸の意匠創案の文化と近代的図案観の交差

江户设计创作文化与现代东京染色图案制作中的现代设计理念的交汇

基本信息

批准号：
17K02320
负责人：
大久保尚子
金额：
$ 1.5万
依托单位：
Miyagi Gakuin Women's University
依托单位国家：
日本
项目类别：
Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)
财政年份：
2017
资助国家：
日本
起止时间：
2017-04-01 至 2024-03-31
项目状态：
已结题

项目摘要

本研究では東京における注染による手拭、浴衣地の近代化過程における意匠創案、受容、製作技術の状況を総合的に捉え、近代性獲得と近世文化継承の両面からそれらの史的位置付けを試みる。以下R4年度概要■論文掲載：東京における注染浴衣地製作の歴史展開を、中形（型染）浴衣の受容のあり方と意匠への要求の変化、新旧技法の消長など中形浴衣近代化過程中に明示し、特に長板中形との関係からその特性を考察した。明治30年代には中形浴衣が夏の日常着として流行商品化、同時に機械捺染が勃興し東京特産の長板中形を圧迫し始めた。明治36年頃大阪で手拭い染め注染の浴衣地応用が開始、40年代から東京中形問屋も幕末期来の手拭染業と協働し、長板中形を範として精緻な意匠、染め上がりの注染浴衣地制作を進めた。関東大震災を機に注染浴衣地は急拡大、長板中形は産業から美術染色へと移行し始める。昭和初期注染浴衣は街着ともなり、近代生活に合致する色彩、意匠を実現するとともに、手仕事の技を追求する姿勢を長板中形から継承し東京の中形浴衣の中心となったことを示した。■口頭発表：大正末昭和初期に相次いだ出版メディアが関与した芸術家、一般人による創作浴衣図案企画につき、当該期に至る浴衣図案制作と染め技法の動向の中に位置づけ、図案創作に対する意識を捉えた。ブームの起点となった芸術家集団による《草の葉染浴衣》、多大な影響力を持った《主婦之友浴衣地》に焦点をあて、関係者の言説にみる図案創作意識、示された図案の性格を検討した。両企画には生活の芸術化を実践する意識と同時に、意匠創案を遊ぶ江戸文化を継承したアマチュアリズムがみられること、東京の注染誂え染めの仕組みが素人図案による制作を可能にしたことを示した。■その他：江戸東京博物館所蔵近代注染手ぬぐい浴衣資料、問屋所蔵昭和前期資料の調査、江東区深川江戸資料館特別展にて東京の注染に関する展示解説を行った。

In this study, we pay attention to the process of hand wiping and bathrobe modernization in Beijing, including the case of craftsmen, tolerance, technical conditions, and the location of modern culture in the history of modern culture. The following R4 annual summary article: the exhibition of the history of bathrobe dyeing in Beijing, the requirements of the medium-shaped (type-dyed) bathrobe, the growth and decline of new and old techniques and the characteristics of the medium-shaped bathrobe in the process of modernization. In the Meiji 1930s, mid-shaped bathrobes were popular and commercialized in summer, and at the same time, mechanical printing and dyeing were forced to grow in the middle of the day. In the Meiji 36 years, the use of hand-dyed bathrobes in Osaka began, and at the end of the 1940s, in Beijing, at the end of the curtain, hand-dyed bathrobes were made at the end of the curtain, and the middle shape of the long plate was used to improve the production of bathrobes. The large shock machine is used to dye bathrobes on a large, medium-sized and long plate, and the art dyeing system begins to move. In the early days of Showa, the bathrobes were decorated in the streets, the colors of modern life were beautiful, the craftsmen were full of colors, and the craftsmen were in pursuit of long and medium-shaped bathrobes. Word of mouth table: in the early days of Showa, Dazhong published a book of art and art, and most people made a plan for a bathrobe project, and during the period to a bathrobe case, the production of dyeing techniques was carried out in the middle of the project, and the meaning of the case was captured. The starting point of the family is to show that the family is interested in the grass-dyed bathrobe, how much power it is to hold the focus of the bathrobe of the Friends of the Lord, and to show you the meaning of the case and the character of the case. The plan is to change the meaning of life at the same time, the craftsman's plan is to change the concept of knowledge at the same time, and the culture of the Yangtze River is in line with the culture of the country. Thank him: the information of the bathrobe in modern times, the early data of Showa, and the special exhibition of the Shenchuan River in Jiangwan District, which were collected by Jiangzhujing Museum.