Novel Digital Weaving Application Development to Innovate the current Woven Textile Coloration by developing an Optical Yarn Colour Mixing System

本项目旨在通过解决目前在JAPAN纺织品设计和制造中存在的局限性来创新当前的机织纺织品着色。在传统的现代提花织造中，纱线颜色的应用受到现有电子提花机性能特点的限制。由于一种或两种颜色的经纱被设置为连续的风格，艺术品的颜色是通过少量的纬纱品种来实现的。因此，当试图复制一个复杂的图片图像时，设计师受到可以同时使用的有限颜色选择的限制。然而，目前还没有相关的编织方法和颜色系统来克服当前的限制。因此，本研究的目的是通过建立光学纱线混色系统来开发独特/新颖的数字织造应用/方法。根据数字技术，研究者（PI）先前的研究（博士研究）已经建立了阴影编织结构和线颜色混合效果之间的相互关系，可以为复杂的多重编织颜色复制提供无限的调色板。当CMYK系统的四种原色线以阴影编织结构格式并置时，通过并置来创建二次色范围是可行的。CMY线的成对组合能够将色域扩展到二次色范围（即，[C]+[M]=[B]，[C]+[Y]=[G]，[M]+[Y]=[R]），而当CMY组合与黑色纱线混合时，它们的色度水平被改变和控制。这些新见解的结果发表在《纺织研究杂志》（SCI）上，包括与组织结构设计、组织颜色样品生产、组织颜色分析和数字组织图案设计有关的详细研究方法，其方法构成了更大调查的安全基础。这项数字化研究已经发展了8年，在此期间，基本理论（即，减色系统，相关的编织结构和数字编织图案技术）进行了研究和测试的潜力，在这项研究中，以克服目前的限制，在机织纺织品着色。根据研究经验和发展，未来的发展将深化数码提花纺织品的价值，以了解人类对并列原色纱线产生视错觉的生理现象，拉夫堡大学（LU）和香港理工大学（HKPU）的合作旨在为建立一个光学纱线混色系统，交流制定不同的纱线原色组的知识。该项目将通过六个不同的阶段来实现研究目标。香港大学计划制作高品质的JESTYLE样品，将应用理论和先进的织造技术/应用可视化，以便与潜在的受众/受益者进行沟通，包括学者，纺织制造商，纺织设计师，商业部门（产品开发）和主要受益者，即消费者。

This project is aimed to innovate the current woven textile coloration by resolving the existing limitations in Jacquard textile design and manufacture. In conventional modern Jacquard weaving, the application of yarn colours is limited by the performance characteristics of existing electronic Jacquard machinery. As one or two colours of warp is set in continuous style, colours of an artwork are realised by a small number of weft yarn variety. Therefore, when attempting to reproduce a complex pictorial image, the designer is constrained by a limited selection of colours that can be employed at the same time. However, at present there is no relevant weaving method and colour system available to overcome the current limitation. Therefore, this research is aimed to develop unique/novel digital weaving applications/methods by establishing an optical yarn colour mixing system. In line with digital technology, prior research (PhD study) by the investigator (PI) has established the interrelationship between shaded weave structures and thread colour mixing effects that could offer an unlimited palette of colours for complex multiple weave colour reproduction. When the four primary colour threads of the CMYK system were juxtaposed in a shaded weave structure format, creating secondary colour ranges were feasible by juxtaposition. The pair combinations of CMY thread are able to expand the colour gamut to secondary colour ranges (i.e, [C]+[M]=[B], [C]+[Y]=[G], [M]+[Y]=[R]) while when the CMY combinations are mixed with black yarn, their chroma levels are varied and controlled. The result of these novel insights is published in the Textile Research Journal (SCI) including the research method in detail relating to weave structure design, weave colour sample production, weave colour analysis and digital weave pattern design of which methodology forms the secure basis for a larger investigation. This digital Jacquard research has been developing last 8 years during which fundamental theories (i.e., subtractive colour system, relevant weave structures and digital weave patterning techniques) have been investigated and tested the potential in this research to overcome the current limitations in woven textile colouration. Based on the research experience and development, the future development will deepen values of digital Jacquard textiles in understanding the physiological phenomenon of human optical illusion of juxtaposed primary colour yarns for which the collaboration between Loughborough University (LU) and Hong Kong Polytechnique University (HKPU) is highlighted to exchange knowledge for formulating diverse groups of primary yarn colours for establishing an optical yarn colour mixing system. This project will progress through taking six different stages to achieve research goals/aims. High-quality Jacquard sample production is planned in support of HKU to visualise the applied theories and developed weaving techniques/applications so as to communicate with potential audiences/beneficiaries including academics, textile manufactures, textile designers, commercial sectors (product development) and the principal beneficiary, namely, the consumer.