ACTIVISMO DE GÉNERO: dress and contemporary activist political performance in feminist uprisings in Latin America

这项研究探讨了从2015年到目前为止，智利和阿根廷女权主义抗议和起义中服装项目作为工具辞职的情况。服装及其身体动作将作为艺术和政治表现的手段进行分析，重点是利用外围女权主义的思想和政治实践进行抵抗。服装作为审美对象，在公共领域内具有丰富的传递政治话语的能力。服装是由维权团体和女性辞职的，她们“凭直觉”从事女权主义斗争，寻求社会公平和正义。抗议者将一种意图和一种功能归因于服装，即他们将其作为具有代理性的物体来“激活”它，扩大了服装的物质范围，并介入了激进主义的物质体验和其制定的社会想象。在公共空间中，服装的政治和表演性激活一直是短暂社区建设的关键，是重新表达抗议思想的关键，最重要的是，在拒绝父权制的新自由主义资本主义政权方面。思考这一现象的关键影响，不仅是为了让智利和阿根廷的女权主义抗议活动的新形式清晰可见，也是为了重新思考历史上被排除在时尚研究之外的叙事。这门学科继续忽视拉丁美洲的服装在欧洲中心主义认知视角之外被问题化的方式。以欧元为中心的现代时尚潮流将拉丁美洲以及其他也曾是殖民主义思想堡垒的地区描绘成一个拥有文化的地方，而文化被否认为构建知识的合法场所。拉丁美洲以这种方式存在，但没有拉丁美洲，相反，它专注于取代实践、流行的社区知识和长期记忆的外在。这些做法培育了个人和集体的身份，这些身份在服装中得到了最重要的表达之一。我自己在Colectivo Malvestidas(穿得很差的集体)的羽翼下的创作和理论经验是这项研究的主要资源，以及其他女权主义团体开发的工作，这些团体比喻地在公共空间的政治干预中使用服装。拉丁美洲的立场是经验和知识的聚集地，非殖民主义的方法被视为共同的斗争实践。

This research explores the resignification of items of clothing as tools in feminist protest and uprisings in Chile and Argentina from 2015 to date. Clothing and its bodily actions will be analyzed as means of artistic and political representation, with an emphasis in harnessing peripheral feminism' thought and political practices of resistance. As aesthetic objects, clothing has the rich capacity to transmit a political discourse within the public sphere. Items of clothing are resignified by activist groups and women who "from intuition" are engaged with feminist struggles and are seeking social equity and justice. The people who protest attribute an intention and a function to clothing, that is, they "activate" it as objects with agency, expanding the material limits of clothing and intervening in both the corporeal experience of activism and the social imaginary of its enactments. The political and performative activation of clothing in the public space has been key in the construction of ephemeral communities, in the rearticulation of the idea of protest and, above all, in the rejection of the patriarchal neoliberal-capitalist regime. Thinking about the critical impact of this phenomenon not only aims to make visible the new forms of feminist protest in Chile and Argentina, but also seeks to rethink narratives historically excluded in Fashion Studies. The discipline continues to overlook the ways in which clothing in Latin America is problematized beyond the cognitive perspective of Eurocentrism. The modern euro-centered gaze of fashion presents Latin America, as well as other territories that have also been a bastion of colonialist thought, as a place that possesses culture, which is denied as a legitimate place of construction of knowledge. In this way Latin America exists, but without Latin America, rather it focuses on an exteriority that displaces practices, popular community knowledge and long-term memories. These practices nurture individual and collective identities that have one of their most significant expressions in clothing. My own creative and theoretical experience under the wing of Colectivo Malvestidas (Poorly Dressed Collective) is the primary resource for this research, along with the work developed by other feminist groups that are metaphorically using clothing in their political interventions in public space. Position is taken from Latin America as a place of experiences and knowledge and a decolonial methodology is embraced as a shared practice of struggles.