Sensing Wishlists - A meta-design approach to the development of fashion consumption technologies

本研究以消费者代理和隐性主观体验为中心，从非殖民化的角度对数字化时尚消费及其在可持续转型中的作用进行了批判性探究。它旨在促进消费者解放，为工业时尚的衰落提出另一种途径。目前关于时尚消费的论述提出，在线购物技术可以更好地理解消费模式，从而提高消费者的意识和可持续的做法。然而，这些都侧重于解决围绕再现现有消费者体验的技术挑战。这表明电子商务并不是时尚消费的破坏者，它为时尚消费不可持续的增长提供了技术手段。本研究采用了一种关系方法，将重点放在具体化的体验及其物质背景上，研究如何激发消费者的感官，从而从根本上重新思考当前支持和促进当代消费文化的技术。从非殖民化的角度出发，它批判性地审视了在线时尚消费的工具和系统是如何被想象、设计和使用的，并提出了以下研究问题：如何在这些背景下探索触觉体验，以颠覆当前的消费运作方式？这是通过一种程序化的设计方法来实现的，该方法由半结构化的访谈、参与性研究和研讨会组成，在这些研讨会中，消费者被视为转型和创造自己世界的积极参与者。最终的结果和贡献是元设计场景，即映射共同创建在线消费系统的社会技术条件的可进化系统。另一个贡献将是时尚和纺织思维的新方法，用于过渡设计和技术发展的感官和敏感。该项目有助于生态转型的设计研究、在线消费的时尚研究、与HCI相关的物质文化等领域，并可能为可持续发展战略和工具提供信息。

This study is a critical inquiry on fashion consumption in digital and its role in sustainable transition from a decolonial perspective, centering consumers agency and tacit, subjective experiences. It aims to promote consumer emancipation, posing alternative paths to the degrowth of industrial fashion.Current discourses on fashion consumption propose technologies for online shopping can lead to a better understanding of consumption patterns, resulting in greater consumer awareness and sustainable practices. However, these focus on addressing technical challenges around reproducing existing consumer experiences. This exposes how e-commerce is less of a disruptor element of fashion consumption, providing the technological apparatuses for the unsustainable growth of fashion consumption as it is.This research takes a relational approach instead, referring to a focus on embodied experiences and its material contexts, investigating how eliciting consumer's senses contributes to radically rethinking the technologies that currently support and promote contemporary cultures of consumption. From a decolonial standpoint, it critically examines how tools and systems of online fashion consumption are imagined, designed and used, asking the following research question: How can tactile experiences be explored in these contexts to subvert how consumption currently operates?This is achieved by a programmatic approach to design, composed of semi-structured interviews, participatory research and workshops where consumers are seen as active agents in the transformation and making of their own worlds. The final results and contributions are meta-design scenarios, that is, evolvable systems that map the socio-technical conditions for the co-creation of online consumption systems. Another contribution will be novel methods on fashion and textile thinking for engaging the senses and the sensitive for transition design and technological development. The project contributes to the fields of design research on ecological transition, fashion studies in online consumption, material culture in relation to HCI, and beyond, potentially informing sustainability strategies and tools.