Experimental and Numerical Modelling Study of Swash Zone Hydrodynamics and Sediment Transport

冲流带是波浪破碎后水流冲上和冲下交替覆盖的海滩区域。这是一个高度动态的环境，流速经常超过2 m/s。大量的沉积物通过冲上和冲下运动在海滩上和下搬运，上坡和下坡搬运之间的差异决定了海滩是侵蚀还是加积。冲刷带有时被称为“海洋的咬合边缘”，因为海岸线侵蚀在这里表现出来。这项研究的目的是更好地了解基本的冲流过程，并建立一个模型，用于预测冲流区的水动力和泥沙输运，研究涉及在大规模进行的详细的实验室实验，旨在分离和测量关键过程。实验结果用于改进和扩展现有的水冲数值模型，以预测给定海滩和入射波条件下的水流、泥沙输运和形态变化。研究的重点是相对陡峭的海滩，坡度为1：10，包含粒度大于1毫米的相对粗糙的物质。该研究有助于建立可靠的波浪作用下海滩响应预测模型。这种模式在沿海设计和沿海区管理方面至关重要。

The swash zone is that region of the beach alternately covered by flow uprush and backwash following wave-breaking. It is a highly dynamic environment with flow velocities frequently exceeding 2 m/s. Vast quantities of sediment are transported up and down the beach by uprush and backwash, and the difference between the upslope and downslope transport determines whether a beach will erode or accrete. The swash zone is sometimes referred to as the 'biting edge of the sea', because it is here that shoreline erosion is manifested. The aim of the research is better understanding of fundamental swash processes and the development of a model for predicting hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the swash zone.The research involves detailed laboratory experiments conducted at large-scale and designed to isolate and measure the key processes. Results from the experimental work are used to improve and extend an existing swash numerical model to predict flow, sediment transport and morphological change for given beach and incident wave conditions. The focus of the research is on relatively steep beaches, with slopes of order 1:10 and comprising relatively coarse material with grain size greater than 1mm. The research contributes to establishing well-founded models for predicting beach response to wave action. Such models are vitally important in the context of coastal design and coastal zone management.