风作用下近岸波浪传播变形及其与建筑物相互作用机制

极端天气所引起的强风可导致沿海区域形成大波幅、强破坏力的破碎波，易造成沿岸区域的漫滩、漫堤，对沿海地区构成极大威胁。开展风作用下近岸波浪传播变形及其与建筑物相互作用机制研究，具有重要的学术价值和广泛的实用意义。本项目首先基于模型试验开展近岸风-浪相互作用及防浪建筑物越浪规律及影响因素研究，量化风对近岸波浪演变及能量耗散与转化关系，揭示风作用下的波浪破碎特性及其对防浪建筑物作用的影响机制。在此基础上，充分考虑近岸动力因素变化趋势及其与建筑物相互作用的物理过程，建立一个可考虑风效应的气-波浪-建筑物相互作用的三维数值模型，实现对风影响下破碎区自由面剧烈变形、建筑物附近强紊动掺气水流等复杂物理过程的数值模拟，为预测在自然条件变化及人类活动影响下海岸动力过程变化规律提供科学依据，也为海岸防灾减灾以及海岸防护工程建设提供技术支撑。

High-speed winds caused by extreme weather can generate huge waves and devastating breaking waves in coastal areas, resulted in coastal flooding, posing a vital threat to coastal communities. It is of significant importance to carry out research of wind effects on near-shore wave propagation and interaction with coastal infrastructures. This project is designed to study wind-wave interactions, wind effects on wave breaking characteristics and wave overtopping over coastal infrastructures by a series of experimental work in a wave flume. Wind effects on the evolution of waves and the relationship between energy dissipation and wave transformation s will be quantified. Furthermore, hydrodynamic characteristics of wave breaking and mechanism on the wave interaction with coastal structures under the action of wind will be discussed in detail. In addition, a three-dimensional numerical model accounting for near-shore dynamic factors and the physical processes of air-wave-structure interactions under the wind effect will be established. The numerical model should revolve the complicated physical processes such as severe deformation of the free surface in the surfing zone and strong turbulent aerated flow near the top of the coastal structure under wind. It is desired to provide a scientific basis for predicting dynamic evolution of coastal region driven by natural conditions and human activities, and also provide technical support for coastal disaster prevention and mitigation, especially coastal engineering constructions.