Long-Term Observations of Beach Variability at Hasaki, Japan
Long-Term Observations of Beach Variability at Hasaki, Japan
复制标题
DOI：
10.3390/jmse8110871
复制
发表时间：
2020-11-01
影响因子：
2.9
通讯作者：
Kuriyama, Yoshiaki
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
Banno, Masayuki;Nakamura, Satoshi;Kuriyama, Yoshiaki
几十年的长期海滩观测数据对于验证用于预测海岸对海平面上升和波浪气候变化的响应的海滩形态动力学模型是必不可少的。在日本的Hasaki海岸，海滩剖面已经以每天到每周的时间间隔测量了34年。该海滩形态数据集是全球海滩形态变化的最长和最高频率的测量之一。剖面资料6800多条，反映了海滩的短期和长期形态变化，表现为海岸沙丘发育、前滨形态变化和沿岸沙坝运动。我们调查的时间海滩变化的年代际和月变化的海拔。极高的波浪和潮汐异常的热带气旋造成了显着的变化，在长期的酒吧行为和前滨坡度。护堤和酒吧的变化也受到季节性波浪和水位变化的影响。从长期观测中发现的变化有助于我们理解各种海岸现象。
Long-term beach observation data for several decades are essential to validate beach morphodynamic models that are used to predict coastal responses to sea-level rise and wave climate changes. At the Hasaki coast, Japan, the beach profile has been measured for 34 years at a daily to weekly time interval. This beach morphological dataset is one of the longest and most high-frequency measurements of the beach morphological change worldwide. The profile data, with more than 6800 records, reflect short- to long-term beach morphological change, showing coastal dune development, foreshore morphological change and longshore bar movement. We investigated the temporal beach variability from the decadal and monthly variations in elevation. Extremely high waves and tidal anomalies from an extratropical cyclone caused a significant change in the long-term bar behavior and foreshore slope. The berm and bar variability were also affected by seasonal wave and water level variations. The variabilities identified here from the long-term observations contribute to our understanding of various coastal phenomena.