What were Cottons for in the Early Industrial Revolution
What were Cottons for in the Early Industrial Revolution
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棉花在工业革命早期的用途是什么
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发表时间：
2005
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通讯作者：
J. Styles
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作者：
J. Styles
贝弗利•勒米尔（Beverley Lemire） 1991年出版了一本关于英国棉花贸易和消费革命的书，书名《时尚的宠儿》（Fashion’s favorite）提醒我们，在18世纪，棉花是一种时尚面料。在20世纪下半叶，装饰棉，如细纹棉布、印花棉布和白色簇绒桌布，在市场的各个层面上，作为服装和家具的理想面料，建立了一种引人注目的货币。它们成为时尚不可或缺的元素。当然，我们可以讨论在这种情况下“时尚”到底是什么意思。经济学家认为，任何一种商品为了刺激销售而定期改变外观，这是时尚吗？这是服装历史学家通过服装对规范外观进行年度或季节性操纵的时尚吗？或者是时尚专家所认为的那些由社会或文化上的精英所追求的自我意识的、前卫的服装创新形式的时尚——皇家宫廷的时尚、18世纪的礼服和后来的高级时装？棉花在18世纪后期取得成功的一个显著特征是，它在这三种感觉中都融入了时尚。在这个过程中，棉花挑战了之前丝绸和羊毛作为时尚面料的霸主地位。18世纪初，由于丝绸和羊毛生产商的抱怨，大多数种类的棉花被禁止进口和销售，当时这些棉花主要来自南亚。从本世纪中叶开始，这项禁令越来越被忽视，然后被废除。到18世纪80年代的生产者
Fashion’s Favourite, the title of Beverley Lemire’s 1991 book on the cotton trade and consumer revolution in England, reminded us that in the eighteenth century cotton was a fashionable fabric. During the second half of the century, decorated cottons like sprigged muslins, printed calicoes and white tufted counterpanes established a remarkable currency as desirable fabrics for dress and furnishing at all levels in the market. They became an indispensable element of fashion. Of course we can debate exactly what ‘fashion’ means in this context. Is it fashion in the economist’s sense of regular changes in visual appearance of any type of good intended to stimulate sales? Is it fashion in the dress historian’s sense of annual or seasonal manipulation of normative appearance through clothing? Or is it fashion in the fashion pundit’s sense of those forms of selfconscious, avant-garde innovation in dress pursued by an exclusive social or cultural élite – the fashion of royal courts, the eighteenth-century ton, and later haute couture? It is a remarkable feature of cotton’s success in the later eighteenth century that it embraced fashion in each of these three senses. In the process, cotton challenged the previous supremacy of silks and woollens as fashionable fabrics. At the start of the eighteenth century the complaints of the silk and woollen producers had secured a prohibition on the import and sale of most types of cotton, then largely sourced in south Asia. From midcentury this ban was increasingly ignored and then repealed. By the 1780s producers of