Simulation of the Nearshore Sediment Transport Pattern and Beach Morphodynamics in the Semi-Enclosed Bay of Myrtos, Cephalonia Island, Ionian Sea
Simulation of the Nearshore Sediment Transport Pattern and Beach Morphodynamics in the Semi-Enclosed Bay of Myrtos, Cephalonia Island, Ionian Sea
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DOI：
10.3390/jmse10081015
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发表时间：
2022-08-01
影响因子：
2.9
通讯作者：
Giannikopoulou, Katerina
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
Petropoulos, Alexandros;Kapsimalis, Vasilios;Giannikopoulou, Katerina
Myrtos海滩（Cephalonia岛，爱奥尼亚海，希腊）代表了一个口袋海滩与强烈的旅游，经济和自然的利益。在这项研究中，沿海地区的形态动力学行为（例如，水动力和沉积状态、形态、方向等），对当前的波浪状况（极端和主要波浪、波浪暴露）以及外部因素（如人类影响和更广泛区域的岩土条件）进行了检查。进行了短期和中长期分析，如绘图、沉积物分析、波浪/风分析、数值模拟和卫星监测，以确定与该地区普遍存在的地貌学、沉积学和水文学有关的动态强迫参数。此外，强烈的构造、岩溶石灰岩和陡峭的悬崖斜坡，加上岛上频繁的地震事件，形成了一个地质不稳定的区域，经常导致Myrtos海滩的滑坡;这些为海滩提供了大量的聚集体，构成了主要的沉积物供应。波浪暴露强迫条件，longshore-ripcurrent方向，和其他水动力过程是稳定的，在该地区的高值，造成显着的海湾边界内的泥沙输运。因此，在Myrtos湾，自然系统保持着动态平衡，这直接受到人类干预的影响。考虑到Myrtos是希腊最著名的海滩之一，也是Cephalonia岛的主要景点之一，每年有成千上万的游客，海滩管理必须侧重于保护沿海地区的自然系统。
Myrtos Beach (Cephalonia Island, Ionian Sea, Greece) represents a pocket beach with strong touristic, economic and natural interest. In this research, the morphodynamic behavior of the coastal area (e.g., hydrodynamic and sedimentary state, morphology, orientation, etc.), the current wave conditions (extreme and dominant waves, wave exposure), and also external factors, such as human impact and the geotechnical condition of the wider area, are examined. Short- and medium-to-long-term analysis took place, such as mapping, sediment analysis, wave/wind analysis, numerical modeling, and satellite monitoring, in order to identify the dynamic forcing parameters related to geomorphology, sedimentology, and hydrology that prevail in the area. Additionally, the intense tectonics, the karstified limestones, and the steep slopes of the cliffs in combination with the frequent seismic events on the island set up a geotechnically unstable area, which often cause landslides on the beach of Myrtos; these supply the beach with a large amount of aggregates, constituting the main sediment supply. Wave exposure forcing conditions, longshore-rip current direction, and other hydrodynamic processes are stable with high values in the area, causing notable sediment transport within the bay boundaries. As a result, at Myrtos Bay there is a dynamic balance of the natural system, which is directly affected by human interventions. Taking also into consideration that Myrtos is one of the most famous beaches in Greece and one of the main attractions of Cephalonia Island with thousands of visitors every year, beach management must be focused on preserving the natural system of the coastal area.