Infragravity Waves on a Barred Beach

该奖项将支持对次重力波段波运动（周期20-200秒）和条状地形相互作用的分析。数据是1986年秋天在北卡罗莱纳州达克市进行的近岸海洋野外实验（称为SUPERDUCK）中获得的。理论模型表明了这些运动在沙洲形成中的重要性，以及先前存在的沙洲对次重力波的潜在调谐。SUPERDUCK数据集的独特之处在于它对三维测深、局部入射（4-20秒）和次引力波场的频繁和彻底的采样。将解决三个问题：1。在亚重力波和条状海滩与那些在简单地形上测量的波之间有系统的区别吗？2. 如果存在差异，产生差异的动力原因是什么？，和，3。亚重力波是否对沙洲的产生和演化负有责任？

This award will support the analysis of the interaction of infragravity-band wave motions (periods 20-200 seconds) and barred topography. Data were obtained during a nearshore ocean field experiment (called SUPERDUCK) in Duck, North Carolina, during the fall of 1986. Theoretical models suggest the importance of these motions in sand bar generation, as well as the potential tuning of infragravity waves by a pre-existing bar. The SUPERDUCK data set is unique in its frequent and thorough sampling of the three-dimensional bathymetry and the local incident (4-20 second) and infragravity wave fields. Three questions will be addressed: 1. Are there systematic differences between infragravity waves and barred beaches and those measured over simpler topographies? 2. If there are differences, what are the dynamical reasons for them?, and, 3. Are infragravity waves responsible for sand bar generation and evolution?