Wave-Structure-Bottom Interaction in Nearshore Zone

许多沿海建筑物的建造是为了减弱波浪条件，提供生产、运输或娱乐设施，防止海滩侵蚀和吸引沉积物。然而，其中一些遭到破坏，一些引发了环境恶化。这些意想不到的结果主要是由于缺乏适当的评估海底响应近岸波和流。波浪与海床、结构物与海床之间的相互作用是海岸结构物设计中的重要问题，但由于随机波场的变换、孔隙水压力测量的困难以及从流体力学到土力学的广泛知识的综合，使得这一问题变得复杂。本文提出了一种近岸结构物的设计方法，包括：（1）随机波浪的转换模型，（2）破碎后波浪运动的数值模型，（3）考虑海床的响应，以实现稳定的海岸结构物。

Many coastal structures have been constructed to attenuate wave condition, to provide production, transportation or recreational facilities and to prevent beach erosion and attract sediment. However, some of them were damaged and some triggered environmental deterioration. These unexpected results are caused mainly by the lack of appropriate evaluation of seabed response to nearshore waves and currents. The interactions between wave and seabed, and between a structure and seabed, which are thus important to design of coastal structures yet little known, are complicated by transforming random wave field, by difficult pore pressure measurement, and by necessity of integrating a broad range of knowledge from fluid mechanics to soil mechanics. We propose to develop the methodology to design coastal structures in the nearshore zone which includes: (1) transformation model for random waves, (2) numerical model to estimate wave motion after breaking, (3) taking account of the seabed response is required to perform the stabilizing coastal structures.