Characteristics of Wave and Current Field around a Longitudinal Reef System

本研究旨在探讨一新发展之“纵礁系统”之波流场特性。在波浪水池中对纵向礁系统进行了波高和水流分布试验。本文还对基于抛物方程的数值模型进行了试验验证。1）在波浪水池中放置了三个纵向礁体。波高和电流测量斜入射的规则波和不规则波。结果表明，该系统有效地耗散了波浪能量，改善了与近岸海域的水交换; 2）采用抛物方程计算辐射应力的数值模型，计算得到的波生流与实验结果吻合较好; 3）采用统计方法对不规则波情况进行数值计算。该模型与实验结果吻合较好。4）数值模拟了七单元系统的电流场。系统对波浪能量的衰减较大，表明了系统对海岸防护的有效作用。

The objective of this research is to clarify the characteristics of wave and current field around a newly developed "Longitudinal Reef System". A system of longitudinal reefs was tested in a wave basin for wave heights and currents distribution. A numerical model based on the parabolic equation was also examined by the experimental results.1) A system of three units of longitudinal reefs was placed in a wave basin. Wave heights and currents were measured for obliquely incident regular and irregular waves. It was confirmed that the wave energy was efficiently dissipated by the system and water exchange with offshore region was improved.2) A numerical model with the radiation stress computed by the parabolic equation yielded wave-induced currents which were in good agreement with experimental results.3) A statistical approach was adopted for the numerical calculation for the case of irregular waves. The model gave a good agreement with the experimental results.4) Current field induced by a system of seven units was numerically investigated. Large decay of the wave energy by the system showed the effective function for coastal protection of the system.