Studies on the Testing Methods for Color Fastness to Perspiration and for Color Fastness to Light and Perspiration for Reactive Dyeings of Cotton Fabries

用活性铜络合偶氮染料染色的玻璃纸在组氨酸溶液中浸泡时，染料中的铜原子被组氨酸夺取，染料的吸收光谱随浸泡时间的变化取决于浸泡条件。铜络合偶氮染料在棉织物上的变色速度比在玻璃纸上快，采用JISL0888及其改进的耐光、汗渍色牢度测试方法，对14种活性染料在棉上的染色进行了测试，以考察这些方法是否能评价棉的耐光、汗渍色牢度染料的性质。根据染料的潜在性能，分析了织物浸泡在含水人工汗液中时，基质、水和pH值对染料初始和后续褪色的影响。在暴露时，许多染料在湿的且含有一些基质的棉织物上经历最初的氧化褪色，随后根据其潜在的性质而还原褪色。ATTS和LACT方法可以充分区分这些染料的等级，而JIS和Mizuno方法则不能充分区分。当纤维素上不存在组氨酸时，铜络合偶氮染料无论是湿的还是干的，在曝光时都表现出较小的褪色。染料在His和EDTA溶液中浸泡后的颜色变化远大于暴露后的颜色变化。当他存在于织物上时，他对褪色有很大的影响，特别是在湿织物的情况下，会产生很大的颜色变化。在某些情况下，暴露的变化变得比浸泡的变化大。但是，当单独使用His时，发现暴露后的大的颜色变化相当大地归因于His使棉织物变黄。

On immersing cellophane dyed with reactive Cu-complex azo dyes in aqueous His, the copper atoms of the dye were abstracted the His and the absorption spectra of the dyes were changed with time depending upon the conditions of immersion. The rates of color variations of Cu-complex azo dyes on cotton fabrics were faster than those on cellophane, although the order of the rates of the dyes on both samples were similar to each other.The testing methods for color fastness to light and perspiration including JIS L0888 methods and their improved ones were applied to cotton dyeings by 14 reactive dyes to examine whether or not these methods could assess the potential properties of dyes. The effects of substrate, water, and the pH of aqueous artificial perspiration in which the test fabrics were immersed on the intial and subsequent fading for these dyes were analyzed in terms of their potential properties. On exposure, many dyes on cotton fabrics which are wet and contain some substrate undergo initially oxidative fading from the surface and subsequently reductive one depending upon their potential properties. ATTS and LACT methods distinguished sufficiently the grading of these dyes, while JIS and Mizuno methods did insufficiently.When no His existed on cellulose, Cu-complex azo dyes showed small fading on exposure irrespective of whether they were wet or dry. The color variations of the dyes by immersing aqueous His and/or EDTA were much larger than those by exposure. When His existed on fabrics, His had large effects on fading especially in case of wet fabrics to give large color variation. In some cases, the variations by exposure became larger than those by the immersion. But, the large color variations after exposure were found to be considerably due to the yellowing of cotton fabrics by His, when His was singly used.