Novel Digital Weaving Application Development to Innovate the current Woven Textile Coloration by developing an Optical Yarn Colour Mixing System

本项目旨在通过解决现有提花织物设计和制造中存在的局限性，对现有的机织织物染色进行创新。在传统的现代提花织造中，纱线颜色的应用受到现有电子提花机性能特点的限制。由于一种或两种颜色的经纱被设定为连续的风格，所以艺术品的颜色是通过少量的纬纱品种来实现的。因此，当试图再现复杂的图画图像时，设计者受到可同时使用的颜色的有限选择的限制。然而，目前还没有相应的织造方法和色彩系统来克服目前的局限性。因此，本研究旨在通过建立光学纱线调色系统来开发独特/新颖的数字编织应用/方法。根据数字技术，研究人员(PI)先前的研究(PHD研究)建立了阴影组织结构和纱线颜色混合效果之间的相互关系，可以为复杂的多种组织颜色复制提供无限的调色板。当CMYK系统的四条原色线并列在阴影组织结构格式中时，通过并置创建二次颜色范围是可行的。CMY线的配对组合能够将色域扩展到次色范围(即，[C]+[M]=[B]，[C]+[Y]=[G]，[M]+[Y]=[R])，而当CMY组合与黑纱混合时，它们的色度水平是变化和控制的。这些新颖见解的结果发表在《纺织研究杂志》(SCI)上，包括与组织结构设计、组织颜色样本制作、组织颜色分析和数字组织图案设计相关的详细研究方法，这些方法为更大范围的研究奠定了坚实的基础。这种数码提花的研究已经发展了8年，在此期间，人们研究了基本理论(即减色系统、相关的组织结构和数字组织图案技术)，并测试了本研究克服目前机织织物着色的局限性的潜力。基于研究经验和发展，数码提花纺织品在了解人类对并置原色纱线视觉错觉的生理现象方面的价值将进一步加深，为此重点介绍了拉夫堡大学(LU)和香港理工大学(HKPU)在这方面的合作，以交流知识，制定不同的原色纱线颜色组，以建立最佳的纱线配色系统。这个项目将通过六个不同的阶段来实现研究目标/目的。我们计划制作高质素的提花样本，以支援港大将应用理论和发展的织造技术/应用具体化，以便与潜在的受众/受惠者沟通，包括学者、纺织制造商、纺织设计师、商界(产品开发)和主要受惠者，即消费者。

This project is aimed to innovate the current woven textile coloration by resolving the existing limitations in Jacquard textile design and manufacture. In conventional modern Jacquard weaving, the application of yarn colours is limited by the performance characteristics of existing electronic Jacquard machinery. As one or two colours of warp is set in continuous style, colours of an artwork are realised by a small number of weft yarn variety. Therefore, when attempting to reproduce a complex pictorial image, the designer is constrained by a limited selection of colours that can be employed at the same time. However, at present there is no relevant weaving method and colour system available to overcome the current limitation. Therefore, this research is aimed to develop unique/novel digital weaving applications/methods by establishing an optical yarn colour mixing system. In line with digital technology, prior research (PhD study) by the investigator (PI) has established the interrelationship between shaded weave structures and thread colour mixing effects that could offer an unlimited palette of colours for complex multiple weave colour reproduction. When the four primary colour threads of the CMYK system were juxtaposed in a shaded weave structure format, creating secondary colour ranges were feasible by juxtaposition. The pair combinations of CMY thread are able to expand the colour gamut to secondary colour ranges (i.e, [C]+[M]=[B], [C]+[Y]=[G], [M]+[Y]=[R]) while when the CMY combinations are mixed with black yarn, their chroma levels are varied and controlled. The result of these novel insights is published in the Textile Research Journal (SCI) including the research method in detail relating to weave structure design, weave colour sample production, weave colour analysis and digital weave pattern design of which methodology forms the secure basis for a larger investigation. This digital Jacquard research has been developing last 8 years during which fundamental theories (i.e., subtractive colour system, relevant weave structures and digital weave patterning techniques) have been investigated and tested the potential in this research to overcome the current limitations in woven textile colouration. Based on the research experience and development, the future development will deepen values of digital Jacquard textiles in understanding the physiological phenomenon of human optical illusion of juxtaposed primary colour yarns for which the collaboration between Loughborough University (LU) and Hong Kong Polytechnique University (HKPU) is highlighted to exchange knowledge for formulating diverse groups of primary yarn colours for establishing an optical yarn colour mixing system. This project will progress through taking six different stages to achieve research goals/aims. High-quality Jacquard sample production is planned in support of HKU to visualise the applied theories and developed weaving techniques/applications so as to communicate with potential audiences/beneficiaries including academics, textile manufactures, textile designers, commercial sectors (product development) and the principal beneficiary, namely, the consumer.