Sartorial Respectability. - Post war Caribbean Dress

这项研究将记录和批判性地分析加勒比女性在风一代来到英国时的着装，以及她们利用自己的服装表现阶级差异的能力。该研究探讨了加勒比地区的女性如何将着装作为其“体面”的象征，在这一新的文化景观中传达这些复杂而矛盾的价值观。这项研究的重点是女性来到英国，从事护士、工厂工人和其他卑微的工作，也有一些来英国与家人团聚。他们进入英国，最终为战后重建英国提供了必要的劳动力。随着他们不可避免地变老，他们未被记录的历史也随之消亡，他们对这个国家的历史和英国社会的持续力量的不可估量的重要性也随之丧失。这一领域的正式知识很少，往往局限于对服装和时尚的肤浅讨论。现有的学术研究一般都在探讨这一主题，忽略了这一特定群体的社会行为和历史服饰之间的关系，同时考虑到了这个时代的社会经济和殖民遗产。目前服装和服装史领域内的经典著作在对服装的批判性讨论中没有提供足够的种族和基于阶级的分析，这使得该领域在处理这一主题时不够充分。目标/目标/应用-黑裙档案馆非洲侨民服装研究所(CIAD)的平台，一个致力于研究非洲侨民服装参与的组织，我在九年前创立的，将在这里发挥关键作用。我将利用这项研究开发一个数字资源的多媒体档案，记录这些加勒比女性的服装，以及她们认为必须利用自己的服装和风格的不同方式，不仅是为了遵守社会惯例，也是作为一种自决的手段。黑裙档案将详细说明阶级、代表性和地位的元素，以及由此产生的权力动态如何与特定主题可用的资源相协调。该档案将成为更大的CIAD项目的一个活的、不断增长的组成部分，而这项博士研究将是其成立的时刻。

This research will document and critically analyse Caribbean women's dress, as they arrived in the UK during the Windrush Generation, and their ability to use their clothing to project class distinctions. It explores how Caribbean women, using dress as a signifier of their projected 'respectability', communicated these complicated ambivalent values in this new cultural landscapeThe women at the focus of this study would have come to the UK to work as nurses, factory workers and in other menial positions and some to join family members. Their induction into the UK ultimately resulted in providing an essential workforce in rebuilding Britain after the war. As they inevitably get older their unrecorded histories die with them and their immeasurable importance to the history of this country and the continued strength of British society is lost.There is minimal formalised knowledge in this field, which tends to be limited to superficial discussions of clothing and style. Existing scholarship approaches the subject generally, neglecting the relationship between social behaviour and historic dress for this particular group taking into consideration the socio-economic and colonial legacies of this era. Current canonical work within the field of clothing and costume history doesn't provide sufficient racial and class - based analysis within critical discussions of dress, which renders the field inadequate when approaching this subject. Aims/ Objectives/ Applications - The Black Dress ArchiveThe platform of the Costume Institute of the African Diaspora (CIAD), an organisation dedicated to researching clothing engagement from the African Diaspora that I founded nine years ago, will play a key role here. I will use the research from this study to develop a multimedia archive of digital resources documenting the clothing of these Caribbean women and the different ways they felt they had to utilise their clothing and style not only to comply with social conventions but also as a means of self- determination. The Black Dress Archive will detail elements of class, representation, and status, and how the consequent power dynamics are reconciled with the resources available to particular subjects. The archive will be a living, growing component of the greater CIAD project and this doctoral research will be its inaugural moment.