ACTIVISMO DE GÉNERO: dress and contemporary activist political performance in feminist uprisings in Latin America

这项研究探讨了从2015年至今，在智利和阿根廷的女权主义抗议和起义中，服装作为工具的重新意义。服装及其身体行为将被分析为艺术和政治表现的手段，重点是利用边缘女权主义的思想和抵抗的政治实践。作为审美对象，服装具有在公共领域内传递政治话语的丰富能力。活动家团体和“凭直觉”参与女权主义斗争并寻求社会公平和正义的妇女重新赋予服装以象征意义。抗议的人们将一种意图和一种功能赋予服装，也就是说，他们将服装作为具有能动性的物体来“激活”，扩大了服装的物质界限，并干预了行动主义的身体体验和行动主义的社会想象。服装在公共空间中的政治和表演性激活是构建短暂社区的关键，是重新表达抗议思想的关键，最重要的是，是拒绝父权制新自由主义资本主义政权的关键。思考这一现象的关键影响，不仅旨在使可见的智利和阿根廷的女权主义抗议的新形式，但也试图重新思考历史上被排除在时尚研究的叙事。该学科继续忽视拉丁美洲服装的问题化方式，超越了欧洲中心主义的认知视角。以欧洲为中心的现代时尚目光将拉丁美洲以及其他也曾是殖民主义思想堡垒的地区视为拥有文化的地方，而文化被否认为构建知识的合法场所。这样，拉丁美洲就存在了，但没有拉丁美洲，而是侧重于一种外在性，这种外在性取代了实践、大众社区知识和长期记忆。这些做法培养了个人和集体的身份，其中一个最重要的表现是服装。我自己的创作和理论经验的翅膀下Malvestidas（穿着不得体的集体）是本研究的主要资源，沿着的工作开发的其他女权主义团体是隐喻使用服装在他们的政治干预在公共空间。拉丁美洲的立场是作为一个经验和知识的地方，非殖民化方法论被接受为共同的斗争实践。

This research explores the resignification of items of clothing as tools in feminist protest and uprisings in Chile and Argentina from 2015 to date. Clothing and its bodily actions will be analyzed as means of artistic and political representation, with an emphasis in harnessing peripheral feminism' thought and political practices of resistance. As aesthetic objects, clothing has the rich capacity to transmit a political discourse within the public sphere. Items of clothing are resignified by activist groups and women who "from intuition" are engaged with feminist struggles and are seeking social equity and justice. The people who protest attribute an intention and a function to clothing, that is, they "activate" it as objects with agency, expanding the material limits of clothing and intervening in both the corporeal experience of activism and the social imaginary of its enactments. The political and performative activation of clothing in the public space has been key in the construction of ephemeral communities, in the rearticulation of the idea of protest and, above all, in the rejection of the patriarchal neoliberal-capitalist regime. Thinking about the critical impact of this phenomenon not only aims to make visible the new forms of feminist protest in Chile and Argentina, but also seeks to rethink narratives historically excluded in Fashion Studies. The discipline continues to overlook the ways in which clothing in Latin America is problematized beyond the cognitive perspective of Eurocentrism. The modern euro-centered gaze of fashion presents Latin America, as well as other territories that have also been a bastion of colonialist thought, as a place that possesses culture, which is denied as a legitimate place of construction of knowledge. In this way Latin America exists, but without Latin America, rather it focuses on an exteriority that displaces practices, popular community knowledge and long-term memories. These practices nurture individual and collective identities that have one of their most significant expressions in clothing. My own creative and theoretical experience under the wing of Colectivo Malvestidas (Poorly Dressed Collective) is the primary resource for this research, along with the work developed by other feminist groups that are metaphorically using clothing in their political interventions in public space. Position is taken from Latin America as a place of experiences and knowledge and a decolonial methodology is embraced as a shared practice of struggles.