Sensing Wishlists - A meta-design approach to the development of fashion consumption technologies

本研究从非殖民化的角度，以消费者主体和隐性的主观体验为中心，对数字化时尚消费及其在可持续转型中的作用进行了批判性的探讨。它旨在促进消费者解放，为工业时尚的退化提出替代路径。当前关于时尚消费的论述提出，在线购物技术可以更好地理解消费模式，从而提高消费者意识和可持续实践。然而，这些都集中在解决围绕复制现有消费者体验的技术挑战。这揭示了电子商务是如何减少时尚消费的破坏因素，为时尚消费的不可持续增长提供技术设备。本研究采用关系方法，关注具体体验及其物质环境，调查如何引发消费者的感官有助于从根本上重新思考目前支持和促进当代文化的技术，消费从非殖民化的角度来看，它批判性地审视了在线时尚消费的工具和系统是如何被想象、设计和使用的，并提出了以下研究问题：如何在这些背景下探索触觉体验，以颠覆目前的消费方式？这是通过一种有计划的设计方法来实现的，包括半结构化访谈，参与性研究和研讨会，在这些研讨会中，消费者被视为改造和创造自己世界的积极参与者。最终的结果和贡献是元设计方案，即，可演化的系统，映射的社会技术条件的共同创造的在线消费系统。另一个贡献将是时尚和纺织品思维的新方法，以吸引感官和过渡设计和技术发展的敏感性。该项目有助于生态转型的设计研究，在线消费的时尚研究，与HCI相关的物质文化等领域，可能为可持续发展战略和工具提供信息。

This study is a critical inquiry on fashion consumption in digital and its role in sustainable transition from a decolonial perspective, centering consumers agency and tacit, subjective experiences. It aims to promote consumer emancipation, posing alternative paths to the degrowth of industrial fashion.Current discourses on fashion consumption propose technologies for online shopping can lead to a better understanding of consumption patterns, resulting in greater consumer awareness and sustainable practices. However, these focus on addressing technical challenges around reproducing existing consumer experiences. This exposes how e-commerce is less of a disruptor element of fashion consumption, providing the technological apparatuses for the unsustainable growth of fashion consumption as it is.This research takes a relational approach instead, referring to a focus on embodied experiences and its material contexts, investigating how eliciting consumer's senses contributes to radically rethinking the technologies that currently support and promote contemporary cultures of consumption. From a decolonial standpoint, it critically examines how tools and systems of online fashion consumption are imagined, designed and used, asking the following research question: How can tactile experiences be explored in these contexts to subvert how consumption currently operates?This is achieved by a programmatic approach to design, composed of semi-structured interviews, participatory research and workshops where consumers are seen as active agents in the transformation and making of their own worlds. The final results and contributions are meta-design scenarios, that is, evolvable systems that map the socio-technical conditions for the co-creation of online consumption systems. Another contribution will be novel methods on fashion and textile thinking for engaging the senses and the sensitive for transition design and technological development. The project contributes to the fields of design research on ecological transition, fashion studies in online consumption, material culture in relation to HCI, and beyond, potentially informing sustainability strategies and tools.