Experimental and Numerical Modelling Study of Swash Zone Hydrodynamics and Sediment Transport

冲浪区是指在消浪后被上冲水流和反冲水流交替覆盖的海滩区域。它是一个高度动态的环境，流速经常超过2m/S，大量的泥沙通过上冲和反冲的方式被冲上冲下，而上坡和下坡的不同决定了海滩是侵蚀还是共生。激流带有时被称为“海口边缘”，因为正是在这里，海岸线的侵蚀才得以显现。这项研究的目的是更好地了解基本的冲刷过程，并开发一个预测冲刷带水动力和泥沙运动的模型。这项研究涉及大规模进行的详细的实验室实验，旨在隔离和测量关键过程。实验结果被用来改进和扩展现有的SWASH数值模型，以预测给定海滩和入射波浪条件下的水流、泥沙输移和地形变化。研究的重点是相对陡峭的海滩，坡度为1：10，由粒度大于1毫米的相对粗糙的物质组成。这项研究有助于建立预测海滩对波浪作用的响应的可靠模型。这种模式在海岸设计和海岸带管理方面至关重要。

The swash zone is that region of the beach alternately covered by flow uprush and backwash following wave-breaking. It is a highly dynamic environment with flow velocities frequently exceeding 2 m/s. Vast quantities of sediment are transported up and down the beach by uprush and backwash, and the difference between the upslope and downslope transport determines whether a beach will erode or accrete. The swash zone is sometimes referred to as the 'biting edge of the sea', because it is here that shoreline erosion is manifested. The aim of the research is better understanding of fundamental swash processes and the development of a model for predicting hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the swash zone.The research involves detailed laboratory experiments conducted at large-scale and designed to isolate and measure the key processes. Results from the experimental work are used to improve and extend an existing swash numerical model to predict flow, sediment transport and morphological change for given beach and incident wave conditions. The focus of the research is on relatively steep beaches, with slopes of order 1:10 and comprising relatively coarse material with grain size greater than 1mm. The research contributes to establishing well-founded models for predicting beach response to wave action. Such models are vitally important in the context of coastal design and coastal zone management.