Experimental and Numerical Modelling Study of Swash Zone Hydrodynamics and Sediment Transport

冲刷带是指在波浪破碎后，海滩上的逆流和反冲交替覆盖的区域。这是一个高度动态的环境，流速经常超过2米/秒。大量的沉积物通过冲升和反冲在海滩上上下移动，而上斜坡和下坡移动的差异决定了海滩是侵蚀还是增生。冲积带有时被称为“海的咬边”，因为这里是海岸线侵蚀的表现。这项研究的目的是更好地了解基本的冲刷过程，并开发一个模型来预测冲刷带的水动力学和沉积物输运。这项研究包括大规模进行的详细的实验室实验，旨在分离和测量关键过程。实验结果用于改进和扩展现有的冲刷数值模型，以预测给定海滩和入射波条件下的水流、泥沙输运和形态变化。研究的重点是相对陡峭的海滩，坡度为1:10，由粒径大于1mm的相对粗糙的物质组成。这项研究有助于建立可靠的模型来预测海滩对波浪作用的反应。这些模型在海岸设计和海岸带管理的背景下至关重要。

The swash zone is that region of the beach alternately covered by flow uprush and backwash following wave-breaking. It is a highly dynamic environment with flow velocities frequently exceeding 2 m/s. Vast quantities of sediment are transported up and down the beach by uprush and backwash, and the difference between the upslope and downslope transport determines whether a beach will erode or accrete. The swash zone is sometimes referred to as the 'biting edge of the sea', because it is here that shoreline erosion is manifested. The aim of the research is better understanding of fundamental swash processes and the development of a model for predicting hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the swash zone.The research involves detailed laboratory experiments conducted at large-scale and designed to isolate and measure the key processes. Results from the experimental work are used to improve and extend an existing swash numerical model to predict flow, sediment transport and morphological change for given beach and incident wave conditions. The focus of the research is on relatively steep beaches, with slopes of order 1:10 and comprising relatively coarse material with grain size greater than 1mm. The research contributes to establishing well-founded models for predicting beach response to wave action. Such models are vitally important in the context of coastal design and coastal zone management.