Characteristics of tsunami motion and energy budget during runup and rundown processes over a plane beach

Characteristics of tsunami motion and energy budget during runup and rundown processes over a plane beach
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平面海滩上空上升和下降过程中海啸运动和能量收支的特征

DOI:
10.1063/1.4729597
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发表时间:
2012-06
期刊:
影响因子:
4.6
通讯作者:
刘桦
刘桦
中科院分区:
工程技术2区
文献类型:
--
作者:
刘桦

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采用完全非线性、高度色散的Boussinesq方程,数值研究了均匀倾斜海滩上海啸波的升降运动。我们首先研究了孤立子理论定义的导压型N波。分析了波浪向近岸移动过程中的岸线运动及其移动速度。通过Boussinesq方程对全速度场的重建,得到了详细的流场和能量变换。此外,作为比较,还研究了孤立波。能量收支的不同解释了在某些特定情况下,N波比孤立波引起的上升幅度更大的现象。然后将研究扩展到N形波、驼峰状波和正弦长波的能量转换模式。这些巨浪的规模与最近的巨大海啸是相同的。结果表明,N型海啸波的势能几乎达到最大值。
Motions of tsunami waves during runup and rundown processes on the uniform sloping beach are studied numerically by the fully nonlinear and highly dispersive Boussinesq equations. We first study the leading-depression N-wave defined by solitary theory. The shoreline movement and its moving speed are analyzed during the wave approaching the coastal area. Details on the flow field and the energy transformation are obtained in terms of the reconstruction of the full velocity field by Boussinesq equations. In addition, solitary wave is studied as a comparison. The different energy budget explains the phenomenon that the N-wave leads much larger runup than the solitary wave in some specific situations. The investigation is then extended to the patterns of the energy transformation of N-shape waves, hump-like waves, and sinusoidal long waves. These waves are of the same order in scale with the recent giant tsunamis. The results show that the potential energy of the N-shape tsunami waves nearly reaches the maxim...
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