Consuming Sumo Wrestlers: Taste, Commensality, and Authenticity in Japanese Food

Consuming Sumo Wrestlers: Taste, Commensality, and Authenticity in Japanese Food
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相扑选手的消费:日本料理的味道、共餐性和真实性

DOI:
10.1080/15528014.2016.1243764
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发表时间:
2016
期刊:
Food, Culture & Society
影响因子:
--
通讯作者:
R. K. Tierney
R. K. Tierney
中科院分区:
--
文献类型:
--
作者:
R. K. Tierney

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日本相扑选手的社交和职业生活的核心是制作、供应和食用炖肉。相扑选手都是吃炖肉的。通过邀请重要客人分享他们的食物,这是与外部世界建立社会联系的重要手段。和相扑手一起吃饭才是真正的“相扑体验”。Chanko也以各种方式在摔跤手的训练馆之外消费。从餐厅供应的豪华海鲜菜肴到便利店出售的廉价相扑风味即食拉面,每一种化身都声称是正宗的。虽然不同和重叠,生产者使用两个主要策略来维护真实性。第一种策略--味道--关注的是菜肴本身的味道或成分,第二种策略--忠诚--强调社会关系,以证明其真实性。认识到这两者之间的区别有助于解释真实性在日本是如何运作的。通过研究chanko炖作为一个“真实”的文化实践内,桥接,和“相扑世界”之外,我们可以了解真实性本身如何采取各种形式,并用于建立联系,文化意义和利润。
Chanko stew—making, serving, and eating it—is at the core of Japanese sumo wrestlers’ social and professional lives. Sumo wrestlers are chanko stew. It is a critical means to make social connections with the outside world by inviting important guests to share their food. Eating with wrestlers is the authentic “sumo experience.” Chanko is also consumed outside of the wrestlers’ training houses in a myriad of ways. Ranging from a luxurious seafood dish served in restaurants to cheap sumo-flavored instant ramen sold in convenience stores, each incarnation claims to be authentic. Although disparate and overlapping, producers use two main strategies to assert authenticity. While the first strategy—taste—focuses on the flavor or ingredients of the dish itself, the second—commensality—emphasizes social ties to make claims of authenticity. Recognizing the difference between these two helps to explain how authenticity works in Japan. By examining chanko stew as an “authentic” cultural practice within, bridging, and outside of the “sumo world,” we can learn how authenticity itself takes on a variety of forms and is used to make connections, cultural meaning and profits.
DOI: --
发表时间: 2013
期刊:
影响因子: --
作者:
Shirakawa;H;Tatsuro Fujikura
通讯作者: Tatsuro Fujikura