Ethnobotanical study on plants used to dye traditional costumes by the Baiku Yao nationality of China.
Ethnobotanical study on plants used to dye traditional costumes by the Baiku Yao nationality of China.
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DOI：
10.1186/s13002-021-00497-2
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发表时间：
2022-01-04
影响因子：
3.6
通讯作者：
Huang Y
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
Hu R;Li T;Qin Y;Liu Y;Huang Y
白裤瑶是我国瑶族的一个分支。这些民族独特的传统服装染色工艺具有鲜明的民族特色，对当地人民的生产生活产生了深刻的影响，具有重要的研究价值。因此，调查和记录巴库瑶族传统服装染色所涉及的染色植物和传统知识非常重要。于2020年1月至2021年8月期间，本研究采用自由列表法，并对广西及贵州的61名白裤瑶举报人进行访谈，以获取有关染色厂的资料。基于自由列表法，通过计算每种植物的认知显著值，对重要植物进行评价和筛选。研究结果表明，白裤瑶人民在长期的染织植物和染织工艺等方面积累了丰富的传统知识。收集了23种白裤瑶，并记录了白裤瑶的名称、生活型、生境、使用部位、应用类型、用途和使用面积等相关传统知识。染色植物的利用与民族文化有着密切的关系。白裤瑶在棉花染色过程中使用独特的抗染材料臭椿，他们称之为“母树”。结果还表明，白裤瑶野生植物中有15种（65.2%）具有药用价值，可用于18种食物的处理，野生植物在白裤瑶的生活中起着重要的作用。这些植物不仅满足了白裤瑶人对色彩的需求，而且具有保健作用，符合现代人追求绿色染色的潮流和健康的要求。本研究为白裤瑶传统服装染色文化的传承和发展提供了参考，有助于识别天然、安全、健康的新型纺织染料，对促进区域经济发展、民族文化传承和生物多样性保护具有积极意义。
The Baiku Yao is a branch of the Yao nationality in China. The unique dying process of traditional clothing employed by these people has distinct national characteristics, a profound impact on the production and life of local people, and important research value. For this reason, it is important to investigate and document the dyeing plants and the traditional knowledge involved in the dyeing of Baku Yao traditional clothing. Information on dyeing plants was obtained using the free-list method and interviews with 61 Baiku Yao informants in Guangxi and Guizhou from January 2020 to August 2021. Based on the free-list method, we evaluated and screened out important plants by calculating the cognitive salience value of each plant. The results showed that the people of Baiku Yao have accumulated rich traditional knowledge of dyeing plants and long-term dyeing and other processes. We collected 23 species and recorded the related traditional knowledge, such as the Baiku Yao name, life form, habitat, part(s) used, application type, usage, and area used. The utilization of dyeing plants has a strong relationship with ethnic culture. The Baiku Yao uses unique anti-dyeing material (Ailanthus vilmoriniana) in the cotton dyeing process, they call it “the mother tree”. As well as, the results also showed that 15 plants (65.2%) have medicinal value and can be used to treat 18 aliments, and wild plants play a very important role in the life of the Baiku Yao. These plants not only meet the color needs of the Baiku Yao people but also have health care effects, aligning with the trends toward green dyeing and the health contentiousness of modern people. This study provides a reference for the inheritance and development of Baiku Yao traditional clothing dyeing culture, will aid the identification of new natural, safe and healthy textile dyes, and is of positive significance in promoting regional economic development, national cultural inheritance, and biodiversity protection.
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影响因子：
3.6
作者：
Fan, Yanxiao;Zhao, Yanqiang;Yang, Lixin
通讯作者：
Yang, Lixin
影响因子：
3.6
作者：
Liu Y;Ahmed S;Liu B;Guo Z;Huang W;Wu X;Li S;Zhou J;Lei Q;Long C
通讯作者：
Long C
故宫博物院两块壁布中黄色染料的鉴定：文物复原的证据
影响因子：
4.5
作者：
Liu, Jian;Ji, Lifang;Zhao, Feng
通讯作者：
Zhao, Feng
影响因子：
5.4
作者：
Hudaib, Mohammad;Mohammad, Mohammad;Aburjai, Talal
通讯作者：
Aburjai, Talal
DOI：
10.1111/curt.12052
发表时间：
2014-04-01
期刊：
Curtis's Botanical Magazine
影响因子：
--
作者：
Jarvis, Charles E.;DuVal, Ashley;Crane, Peter R.
通讯作者：
Crane, Peter R.