A study of tsunami-like solitary wave transformation and run-up over fringing reefs

A study of tsunami-like solitary wave transformation and run-up over fringing reefs
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类似海啸的孤波变换和岸礁上升的研究

DOI:
10.1016/j.oceaneng.2017.12.020
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发表时间:
2018-02
期刊:
影响因子:
5
通讯作者:
Liu Z.
Liu Z.
中科院分区:
工程技术2区
文献类型:
--
作者:
Yao Y.;He Fang;Tang Z.;Liu Z.

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2004年印度洋海啸发生后,岸礁对海岸线的防护作用引起了海啸后调查的极大关注。为了更好地了解边缘礁在减轻海啸灾害中的作用,在波浪水槽中进行了实验室实验,以研究各种边缘礁剖面上类似海啸的孤立波的转化和上升。入射波高,礁滩淹没,泻湖宽度和礁表面粗糙度的影响进行了研究。圆柱阵列被用来创建人工粗糙的礁表面上的元素。根据试验数据,提出了波浪爬高的经验公式。礁滩淹没入射波高的比率总是被认为是主要参数,以表征波爬高超过各种测试的礁剖面。最后,利用实验数据验证了基于改进Boussinesq方程考虑粗糙元阻力效应的数值模型的正确性。验证后的模型,然后应用于调查的孤立波爬高的影响的礁形态(礁前斜率,礁后斜率,礁坪宽度,礁顶宽度)的变化。
After the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, the effectiveness of fringing reefs in protecting coastlines from tsunami-induced inundation has aroused great attention in the post-tsunami surveys. To better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of a tsunami hazard, laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to study the transformation and run-up of tsunami-like solitary waves over various fringing reef profiles. The effects of incident wave height, reef-flat submergence, lagoon width and reef surface roughness were examined. Cylinder arrays were employed to create artificial roughness elements on the reef surface. Empirical formulas based on the experimental data were also proposed for the wave run-up. The ratio of the reef flat submergence to the incident wave height was always found to be the dominant parameter to characterize the wave run-ups over various tested reef profiles. Subsequently, a numerical model based on the improved Boussinesq equations including the drag effect of roughness elements was validated by the experimental data. The validated model was then applied to investigate the impacts of variations of reef morphologies (fore-reef slope, back-reef slope, reef-flat width, reef-crest width) on the solitary wave run-up.
DOI: 10.1007/s00338-011-0719-5
发表时间: 2011-01
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影响因子: 3.5
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