Collaborative Research: The Dynamics of Shoaling and Breaking Nonlinear Internal Waves and their Transport, Dispersion and Buoyancy and Momentum Balances

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Internal waves, which are waves formed between two layers of a stratified water column, are observed to propagate towards the coastline in most continental shelve regions. As these waves shoal, or are slowed by bottom friction, when entering into water depths of approximately one-half of the wave amplitude, their interaction with the bottom causes these waves to undergo transformations. Observations of across-shore transport and nutrient and plankton mixing suggest that nonlinear internal waves (NLIWs) play a critical role in the maintenance of some inner shelf benthic communities. However, the across-shore transport length scales, the dispersion rates and the fluxes of buoyancy, momentum and energy, and, thus, the potentially important influence of these waves on coastal circulation and ecosystems, have not yet been quantified. Oceanographers from Oregon State University and the University of North Carolina, with support from the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute, will use a combined observational and numerical approach to quantify transport, dispersion, buoyancy and momentum fluxes, and flux divergences of shoaling NLIWs and determine their influence on the low-frequency circulation and density field in Massachusetts Bay. Their field observations will include deployments of a mooring array to quantify nonlinear internal wave fluxes, rapid shipboard surveys to study the evolution of individual waves from their generation point, through the region of shoaling, and to their demise near the coast, and dye injections and shipboard tracking to quantify scales of across-shore transport and rates of dispersion. In addition to field observations, a 'state-of-the-art', adaptive grid, nonhydrostatic, numerical model will be used to simulate nonlinear internal wave generation and evolution to compare the numerical output with the field observations and understand the detailed, three-dimensional evolution of these waves. Studying this process will provide an objective assessment of the significance of NLIWs relative to other physical processes in the coastal ocean. Understanding the mechanisms which transport and disperse water-borne materials (e.g., nutrients, pollutants, plankton) in the coastal ocean is a high priority objective for coastal physical oceanographic research and can have direct influence on environmental management.