Rags to Riches: An Archaeological Study of Textiles and Gender in Iceland, AD 874 -1800.

白手起家：冰岛纺织品和性别的考古研究，公元 874 年 -1800 年。

• 批准号: 1023167
• 负责人: Michele Smith
• 金额: $ 48.7万
• 依托单位: Brown University
• 依托单位国家: 美国
• 项目类别: Continuing Grant
• 财政年份: 2010
• 资助国家: 美国
• 起止时间: 2010-07-01 至 2014-06-30
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://www.nsf.gov/awardsearch/showAward?AWD_ID=1023167&HistoricalAwards=false
• 关键词: Rags; Riches; Archaeological; Study; Textiles

This project will conduct a three-year study exploring gender, textiles and society in Iceland from the Viking Age (ca. 874-1050) until the early 19th century, using museum collections from 12 archaeological sites from across Iceland.Until ca. 1750, textiles and their production were central to the operation of the Icelandic economy. While raising, herding, and shearing sheep were tasks primarily undertaken by men, the transformation of sheared wool to yarn, cloth, and finished products was women's work. It is not inappropriate to suggest that the products of their labor formed the basis on which this society ran. Woolen textiles were legal currency in medieval and post-medieval Iceland, against which all other commodities were valued and traded. Debts, taxes, tithes and foreign exchanges were paid in woolen cloth. Detailed laws regulated the quality and construction of different types of woolen cloth for use in different types of exchange or for exchange at different rates, but it was women working together who ensured that quality, regulated their own household?s production, and created its durable wealth.Women were also in charge of transforming cloth into clothing and, through that process, produced the most essential items of daily life - clothing, blankets, tents, and other utilitarian items - that buffered Icelanders against a changing climate and often-severe conditions during the Little Ice Age. In the process, they also established styles used to demonstrate households' status vis-à-vis others; to visually affirm individuals' status by marking gender, age and marital status; and to link Icelanders to international styles and to emerging emblems of regional and national identity.Through a detailed analysis of textile collections now held in Icelandic museums, recovered over the past century from archaeological sites in all parts of this subarctic island and spanning 1100 years, this project will document and analyze women's roles and women's involvement in textile production, In so doing, it will help to establish an archaeology of gender in the North Altantic. By exploring textile production and use, through time, on an island-wide scale, it will document the roles of imported textiles and dyes within Iceland and the ways that "women's work" in textile production influenced both Iceland?s domestic and international commerce. Through this approach, it will shed new light on women?s power within Icelandic households at different levels of the social system, providing a valuable contribution to social archaeological research in the North Atlantic. Finally, by exploring the decisions that women made in transforming textiles - both domestic and imported - into clothing, this project will investigate the roles they played in establishing and changing markers of individual, family, regional, and national identity as well as decisions they may have made when facing increasing global climate cooling in the North Atlantic. This project will bring Icelandic women and women's work to the forefront in North Atlantic research, use them as a model for reintroducing women into archaeological research programs across the North, and contribute to global discussions about the hidden roles of women in traditional societies and their roles in guiding change and preserving tradition.

该项目将进行一项为期三年的研究，探讨冰岛自维京海盗时代以来的性别、纺织品和社会。874-1050）直到世纪早期，使用来自冰岛各地12个考古遗址的博物馆藏品。1750年，纺织品及其生产是冰岛经济运作的核心。虽然饲养、放牧和剪羊毛主要由男性承担，但将剪下的羊毛转化为纱线、布料和成品则是女性的工作。认为他们的劳动产品构成了这个社会运行的基础，这并不是什么不恰当的说法。羊毛纺织品是中世纪和后中世纪冰岛的法律的货币，所有其他商品都是以此来计价和交易的。债务、税收、什一税和外汇都用毛布支付。详细的法律规定了不同类型的羊毛织物的质量和结构，用于不同类型的交换或以不同的汇率进行交换，但正是妇女们共同努力确保质量，管理自己的家庭？妇女还负责将布料转变成衣服，并通过这一过程生产日常生活中最基本的物品-衣服，毯子，帐篷和其他实用物品-这些物品在小冰河时期缓冲了冰岛人对气候变化和经常严峻的条件的影响。在这一过程中，他们还确立了用于显示家庭维斯维斯其他家庭的地位的风格;通过标记性别、年龄和婚姻状况，从视觉上肯定个人的地位;并将冰岛人与国际风格以及新兴的地区和民族身份的象征联系起来。通过对冰岛博物馆目前收藏的纺织品的详细分析，这个项目将记录和分析过去世纪从这个亚北极岛屿所有地方的考古遗址中恢复的、跨越1100年的妇女角色和妇女参与纺织生产的情况。这将有助于在北大西洋地区建立一个性别考古学。通过探索纺织品的生产和使用，随着时间的推移，在全岛范围内，它将记录的作用，进口纺织品和染料在冰岛和方式，“妇女的工作”在纺织生产中影响冰岛？的国内和国际贸易。通过这种方法，它将揭示新的光对妇女？研究了冰岛家庭在社会制度不同层次上的权力，为北大西洋的社会考古研究做出了宝贵的贡献。最后，通过探讨妇女在将国内和进口纺织品转变为服装方面所做的决定，本项目将调查她们在建立和改变个人，家庭，区域和国家身份标志方面所发挥的作用，以及她们在北大西洋面临全球气候日益变冷时可能做出的决定。该项目将把冰岛妇女和妇女的工作带到北大西洋研究的前沿，将其作为将妇女重新引入整个北方考古研究方案的典范，并促进全球讨论妇女在传统社会中的隐藏作用及其在引导变革和保护传统方面的作用。