Collaborative Research: Modeling wave breaking onset and dissipation in energy-conserving models for surface waves

合作研究：在表面波节能模型中模拟波破碎的起始和消散

• 批准号: 1948705
• 负责人: James Kirby
• 金额: $ 23.87万
• 依托单位: University of Delaware
• 依托单位国家: 美国
• 项目类别: Standard Grant
• 财政年份: 2020
• 资助国家: 美国
• 起止时间: 2020-04-01 至 2023-03-31
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://www.nsf.gov/awardsearch/showAward?AWD_ID=1948705&HistoricalAwards=false
• 关键词: Collaborative; Research; Modeling; wave; breaking

Wave breaking is a crucial process affecting a variety of ocean and coastal science and engineering problems both offshore and in the nearshore of great societal importance. This study will develop algorithms for the detection of wave breaking initiation, breaking conditions, and energy dissipation due to wave breaking, for use in phase-resolving ocean wave propagations models. Extensive validation and sensitivity analysis will be performed against recent high-fidelity numerical simulations and laboratory and field data. The robustness of the developed formulations will also be compared with existing breaking models. In addition to developing the parametrizations, this study will quantify uncertainties associated with various parametrizations of wave breaking in operational phase-resolving wave models. The model-field data comparison during storm conditions will benefit the coastal engineering community by better identifying model skill and uncertainty during storms and extreme events. The work will improve predictions of the occurrence and severity of breaking waves in phase-resolving wave models leading to: (i) a more accurate representation of wave-forcing (on currents, sediment processes, air-sea interactions, etc.) over a range of water depths, including the inner shelf, the surf zone, and river mouths; (ii) improved design analyses and safety for coastal and ocean structures and ship design. A better prediction of breaking processes and impacts during energetic/storm events will also benefit the public through improved strategies for coastal resilience. A junior scientist at the University of Washington (UW), the lead PI, will be mentored by the more senior co-PIs, which will help him transition to a permanent appointment. The project will support a female graduate student at the University of Delaware, who will be co-advised by the PIs. Outreach will be conducted at the annual "Discovery Days" event at the University of Washington.A new, unified, and robust closure model for parameterization of the onset and progression of wave breaking in phase-resolving, energy-conserving surface wave models is proposed, applicable to Boussinesq (commonly used in shallow water) and High-Order Spectral (HOS, commonly used in deep water) models. The proposed work is motivated by and builds on recent results obtained using high-fidelity numerical simulations, which establish that the onset and strength of breaking of an individual wave crest can be determined solely from local properties of the evolving crest as it approaches breaking in arbitrary depth. The new closure model will improve on existing methods by providing a formulation that is adaptive to individual wave crests, as opposed to being calibrated based on the general features of the wave train. Extensive validation and sensitivity analysis of the proposed breaking closure model will be performed against recent high-fidelity numerical simulations, available laboratory experiments, and recent and ongoing field observations during storm conditions. Both the latter data and its use in numerical modeling are quite novel and will establish a unique model-field data comparison procedure as it requires initialization of the phase-resolving model using a wave field reconstruction algorithm. The robustness of the proposed breaking closure model will also be compared with existing breaking models.This award reflects NSF's statutory mission and has been deemed worthy of support through evaluation using the Foundation's intellectual merit and broader impacts review criteria.

波浪破裂是一个至关重要的过程，影响了海洋和沿海科学和工程问题的各种近海和近海的社会重要性。这项研究将开发算法，用于检测波浪破裂，破裂条件和波浪破裂引起的能量耗散，以用于相位分辨率的海浪传播模型。将对最近的高保真数值模拟以及实验室和现场数据进行广泛的验证和灵敏度分析。开发的配方的鲁棒性也将与现有的破坏模型进行比较。除了开发参数化外，这项研究还将量化与操作相位分辨率波模型中波浪破裂的各种参数相关的不确定性。在风暴条件下的模型现场数据比较将通过更好地识别风暴和极端事件中的模型技能和不确定性来使沿海工程社区受益。 这项工作将改善对相位解析波模型中断裂波的发生和严重程度的预测：（i）在包括内部架子，冲浪区和河流的一系列水深上，在包括水深度的一系列水深中，更准确地表示波形（在电流，沉积物过程，空气相互作用等）上； （ii）改进了沿海和海洋结构以及船舶设计的设计分析和安全性。在充满活力/风暴事件期间的破坏过程和影响的更好的预测也将通过改进的沿海弹性战略受益于公众。 PI领导PI的华盛顿大学（UW）的初级科学家将受到更多高级副派的指导，这将帮助他过渡到永久任命。该项目将支持特拉华大学的一名女研究生，该学生将由PIS共同努力。外展活动将在华盛顿大学的年度“发现日”活动中进行。提出了一种新的，统一的和可靠的闭合模型，用于在相位分辨率，持势的表面波模型中发作和波动破裂的参数化和进展，适用于BousSinesq，可用于BousSinesq（通常用于浅水水中）和高级光谱（常用于高级频谱）（常用），可用于Worter（常用）。提出的工作是由使用高保真数值模拟获得的最新结果的动机，并确定单个波峰破裂的开始和强度可以仅取决于不断发展的波峰的局部特性，因为它在任意深度中破裂。新的闭合模型将通过提供适应单个波峰的公式来改善现有方法，而不是根据波列的一般特征进行校准。针对最近的高保真数值模拟，可用的实验室实验以及在暴风雨条件下的近期和持续的现场观察，将对所提出的断裂闭合模型进行广泛的验证和灵敏度分析。后者的数据及其在数值建模中的使用都是非常新颖的，并且将建立一个独特的模型范围数据比较过程，因为它需要使用波场重建算法对相位解析模型进行初始化。拟议中断封闭模型的鲁棒性也将与现有的破坏模型进行比较。该奖项反映了NSF的法定任务，并且使用基金会的知识分子优点和更广泛的影响评估标准，被认为值得通过评估来获得支持。