Modeling on Transformation Process of Beach Profiles

海滩轮廓变换过程建模

• 批准号: 61460168
• 负责人: SAKAI Tetsuo
• 金额: $ 1.73万
• 依托单位: Kyoto University
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (B)
• 财政年份: 1986
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 1986 至 1987
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/en/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-61460168/
• 关键词: Beach process; Plunging breaker; Large scale vortex; Mass transport velocity; Bottom boundary layer; 浮遊砂; 大規模渦

This project has been carried out to obtain fundamental knowledge which describes the mechanism of beach transformation under wave action. Large scale vortices generated by wave breaking play an important role for the sediment movement in the surf zone. To clarify the mechanism, Sakai has performed a numerical analysis with a marker and cell method to simulate a violent motion after an impinging of a jet from a crest of a plunging breaker. Asano has calculated the turbulent energy close to a bottom under wave motion with a k-e model, and investigated the sediment concentration under the calculated turbulent energy by using a stochastic method. Mase has proposed a calculation model of random wave transformation including wave breaking on a uniform slope. The model gives useful information for the sediment movement under random waves. Hirayama has developed a new theory concerning the mass transport velocity due to waves on a uniform slope. The result is important because the mass transport velocity is closely related to the sediment movement. Iwagaki has summarized the above fundamental results and clarified that the transformation of a beach profile can be explained by the spatial variation of the net velocity of a sediment.

该项目的实施旨在获得描述波浪作用下海滩变形机制的基础知识。波浪破碎产生的大尺度涡对碎波带泥沙运动起着重要作用。为了阐明这一机制，酒井用标记和单元法进行了数值分析，模拟了射流从俯冲破碎机的波峰撞击后的剧烈运动。浅野用k-e模型计算了波浪运动下靠近底部的湍流能量，并用随机方法研究了计算的湍流能量下的含沙量。Mase提出了一种考虑波浪在均匀斜坡上破碎的随机波浪变形计算模型。该模型为随机波浪作用下的泥沙运动提供了有用的信息。平山发展了一个关于均匀斜坡上波浪引起的物质输运速度的新理论。由于物质输移速度与泥沙运动密切相关，因此该结果具有重要意义。Iwagaki总结了上述基本结果，并阐明了海滩剖面的转变可以用沉积物净速度的空间变化来解释。

项目成果

Tetsuo Sakai: "Numerical Analysis on the dynamics of after plunging type breaking waves on a uniform slope" Proc. of 34th Japanese Conference of Coastal Engg.71-75 (1987)

Tetsuo Sakai：“均匀坡度上后切入型破碎波动力学的数值分析”Proc。

酒井哲郎: 第34回海岸工学講演会論文集. 71-75 (1987)

Tetsuro Sakai：第 34 届海岸工程会议记录，71-75 (1987)。

間瀬肇: 土木学会論文集. 375. 221-230 (1986)

Hajime Mase：日本土木工程师学会会议记录 375. 221-230 (1986)。

平山秀夫: 第34回海岸工学講演会論文集. 6-10 (1987)

Hideo Hirayyama：第 34 届海岸工程会议记录，6-10 (1987)。

平山秀夫: 昭和62年度土木学会関西支部年次学術講演会概要集. (1987)

平山秀夫：1987年日本土木学会关西分会年度学术讲座摘要集。（1987）