Surf-zone dynamics as interacting system of wave, flow, sediment-transport and seabed

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Many of existing models cannot reproduce a complexity of a surf zone, such as a violent behavior of water surface with a fragmentation and a coalescence of water. A sediment transport in a surf zone is full of complexity. There exist a large-scale suspension of sediment due to a plunging breaker, a liquefaction of seabed induced by a change of water pressure due to wave propagation, and so on.In this study, multidirectional approach was done for dynamics of a surf zone as an interacting system of a wave motion, a flow, a sediment transport and a seabed. Primal subjects are as follows : (1) a modeling of a wave, a flow and a sediment transport in a surf zone ; (2) a modeling of liquefaction of seabed and a cavity formation of artificial sand beach ; and (3) application of a developed model to various kinds of hydraulic phenomenon.