On the Better Hydrauric Functions of Breakwaters in a Resort

利用反射墙作为集波器进行水交换首先，通过模型试验确定了沉水防波堤的有效高度，该防波堤的波浪漫过量大，波浪透射系数小。其次，利用波衍射散射理论分析了v形反射壁的波集中特性，并与模型试验结果进行了比较。毕竟，我们发现在每个开角下，反射墙的有效长度都是最大的。根据上述结果和波浪共振理论设计的一些基本模型在波槽中进行了试验，发现在与波集中器相连的入口通道的沉堤处，波漫过量有所增加。此外，还研究了抛物线型喇叭和指数型喇叭反射壁上的波集中特性（指数型喇叭有截止频率）。结果表明，入口通道中存在更多聚焦的抛物线型壁面收集波能效率最高，V型和抛物线型壁面收集波能效率中等，指数型壁面由于存在较多反射波，收集波能效率最低。防波堤对水的净化和控制首先，从理论上和实验上研究了波浪作用下防波堤的流动和扩散特性。其次，研究了均匀潮流条件下透水防波堤的分散特性。研究结果提出了劈裂式防波堤的有效横截面间隙几何形状。在波浪和潮汐作用下的防波堤附近，可以估计海港内的扩散系数和弥散系数。通过对复湿系数的估算，发现透水防波堤对净化港口水体是有效的。提出了具有控制波浪和交换水功能的有效防波堤，包括水下防波堤和薄缝式透水防波堤。少

Water Exchange by Reflection Walls as a Wave ConcentratorFirst, the effective height of submerged breakwaters was found out by model tests, that caused much wave overtopping and had small wave transmission coefficients. Next, wave concentration characteristics of V-arranged reflection walls were analyzed with the wave diffraction-scattering theory, and were compared with results of model tests. After all, it was found that the reflection wall had the most effective length for each open angle. Some basic models which were designed based on the above results and wave resonanec theory were tested in the wave tank, and quantities of wave overtopping were found to be enhanced at the submerged dike in the inlet channel connected to the wave concentrator. Furthermore, characteristics of wave concentration were studied on reflection walls of parabolic horn type and exponential horn type (this type has the cut-off frequency). It was concluded that the parabolic type walls of which forcus existe … More d in the inlet channel had the highest efficiency to collect wave energy, V type and the parabolic type of which forcus located at the inlet mouth had moderate one, and the exponential type had the lowest one due to the existence of much reflected waves.Water Purification and Water Wave Control by BreakwatersFirst, the characteristics of flow and diffusion due to the wave action against a breakwater were examined theoretically and experimentally. Second, the dispersion characteristics of the permeable breakwater were also studied which was installed in the uniform tidal flow. In the results, the effective gap geometry of the cross section was suggested for the split-type breakwater. The values of diffusion and dispersion coefficients in a harbor could be estimated near the breakwater which was exposed to the wave and the tidal flow. And after reaeration coefficients were estimated, Ii was found that the permeable breakwaters were effective to purify the water in the harbor. Furthermore, the effective breakwaters were proposed to control waves and to exchange water, which consisted of a submerged breakwater and a thin slit-type permeable breakwater. Less