A Study On Beach Transformation Due To Irregular Waves

本研究的目的是探讨泥沙输移的特征，并建立不规则波浪作用下二维海滩转换的数值模型。利用裂热膜传感器和激光多普勒测速仪对冲浪区的速度进行了详细测量。描述了规则波和不规则波作用下的波变换特征和近床速度变化。为了了解不对称和不规则振荡流对泥沙运动的影响，在振荡流隧道中进行了大量的实验。在二维波浪水槽中进行了不规则波浪作用下海滩变形的实验研究。建立了数值模拟模型，并详细讨论了波浪不均匀性对海滩变形的影响。

The objective of the present study is to investigate the characteristics of the sediment transport and to develop a numerical model of two-dimensional beach transformation due to irregular waves.1. Velocities in the surf zone were measured in detail by using a split-hot-film sensor and a laser-Doppler velocimeter. Characteristics of wave transformation as well as near bed velocity variations were described under regular and irregular waves.2. A number of experiments were carried out in an oscillatory flow tunnel in order to understand the mechanics of sediment movement due to asymmetric and irregular oscillatory flows.3. Experiments on beach transformation under irregular waves were performed in a two-dimensional wave flume. Numerical simulation model was then developed and the effect of wave irregularity on beach deformation was discussed in detail.