A Study On Beach Transformation Due To Irregular Waves

不规则波浪引起的海滩改造研究

• 批准号: 60420039
• 负责人: HORIKAWA Kiyoshi
• 金额: $ 19.01万
• 依托单位: The University of Tokyo
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (A)
• 财政年份: 1985
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 1985 至 1986
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-60420039/
• 关键词: Beach Transformation; Irregular Waves; 海浜過程

The objective of the present study is to investigate the characteristics of the sediment transport and to develop a numerical model of two-dimensional beach transformation due to irregular waves.1. Velocities in the surf zone were measured in detail by using a split-hot-film sensor and a laser-Doppler velocimeter. Characteristics of wave transformation as well as near bed velocity variations were described under regular and irregular waves.2. A number of experiments were carried out in an oscillatory flow tunnel in order to understand the mechanics of sediment movement due to asymmetric and irregular oscillatory flows.3. Experiments on beach transformation under irregular waves were performed in a two-dimensional wave flume. Numerical simulation model was then developed and the effect of wave irregularity on beach deformation was discussed in detail.

本研究的目的是探讨不规则波作用下的泥沙输移特性，并建立二维海滩变形的数值模型.利用热膜传感器和激光多普勒测速仪对碎波区的流速进行了详细的测量。描述了规则波和不规则波作用下波浪的变形特征以及近底流速的变化特征.在振荡流风洞中进行了大量的实验，以了解由于不对称和不规则振荡流引起的泥沙运动机理。在二维波浪水槽中进行了不规则波作用下海滩变形的试验研究。建立了数值模拟模型，详细讨论了波浪不规则性对海滩变形的影响。

项目成果

K.カテイ第33回海岸工学講演会論文集.

K. Katey 第 33 届海岸工程会议论文集。

柴山知也: 第32回海岸工学講演会論文集. 32. 65-69 (1985)

Tomoya Shibayama：第 32 届海岸工程会议论文集。32. 65-69 (1985)。

佐藤愼司: 第32回海岸工学講演会論文集. 32. 283-287 (1985)

Shinji Sato：第 32 届海岸工程会议记录。32. 283-287 (1985)。

SHIBAYAMA, Tomoya: "The structure of the velocity field in the surf zone induced by backwash and plunging breakers." Proceedings of the 32nd Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering. 32. 65-69 (1985)

SHIBAYAMA，Tomoya：“由反冲洗和冲入破碎机引起的冲浪区速度场的结构。”

OKAYASU, Akio: "Estimation of the two-dimensional steady current in the surf zone." Proceedings of the 33rd Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering. 33. 1-5 (1986)

OKAYASU、Akio：“冲浪区二维稳定流的估计。”