Analysis of garment silhouette and material design for the beautiful and comfort clothing life

点击翻译按钮获取中文摘要

Samples for this study are prepared by Dr. Mori who is a professional in textile design and former technical director of Tsuyakin Kogyo Co. Ltd.To make sure that why the fabrics manufactured in Italy are evaluated as so called"kansei-rich"compared with Japanese ones, two groups of fabrics were prepared. Fabric mechanical properties were measured using KES-KB fabric measurement system, Kato-Tech. Ltd. On the other hand, handling test of these fabrics was conducted. Number of subjects were 21, including professionals in textile, students and consumers. In this sensory test, fabrics were judged in five degree, from poor handle, 1, to rich handle, 5. The mean values of judge against Italian fabrics were very high, 4.0 for summer suiting and 4.6 for winter. Meanwhile, those of Japanese were 2.8 and 2.4, respectively. To analyze the difference between two groups of fabrics fabric penetration resistances of needle through fabric were measured. KES-FB3 compression tester was modified to measur … More e the penetration resistance. The needle penetration resistances of the Italian fabrics were small, while Japanese were very large. And, the resistances when drawing out of the needle from fabrics are also large in Japanese fabrics. 2.2/2 twill fabrics made of course wool which were similar to so called Harris Tweed were prepared. Then 16 kinds of finishing process were added to the original fabrics. The original fabric is finished in different finishing methods, milling, coated by resin, softening, quarts sand finish, different times of oxidation-reduction finishes and enzyme treatment. Fabric mechanical properties were measured using KES-KB fabric measurement system. For seventeen fabrics, sensory test about 11 couples of words concerning handle feeling was operated against 5 persons who have been concerning with textile professionally and 50 students. Relationships between calculated hand values, KOSHI, FUKURAMI, total hand value(THV) and total appearance value(TAV) and objective judges are discussed. In this study finger-tip type attachment for the KES-FB5 Surface Tester are very effective to evaluate the hand feelings of tweed fabrics than ordinal finger-pattern type attachment. 3.Interlining fabric is fused on the back side of the face fabric and keeps the silhouette of garments. Three types of face fabric were treated by argon-plasma and then fusible interlining is adhered on them respectively. Interlining used in this study was polyester plain weave fabric with polyamide resin. Composite fabric of face and interlining fabrics is prepared under the same conditions between samples. Fabric mechanical properties were measured using KES-FB measuring system. Peeling strength of interlinings from face fabric is measured using KES-FB1 tensile tester. Peeling strengths were larger in plasma treated fabrics than untreated in all samples. This result shows that plasma treatment is effective to the adhesion ability. Penetration of adhesive resin to face fabric is observed in the plasma treated samples photographically. Bending stiffness also increases by plasma treatment. Less