Functional Finishing of Natural Fibers by Interfacial Graft Polycondensation

摘要研究了羊毛、棉纤维等天然纤维的功能性整理新技术。该技术的原理是通过界面缩聚反应在纤维表面形成一层薄的、均匀的、有色的聚合物薄膜，例如聚（六亚甲脂酰胺）薄膜。对于羊毛，该技术可以在不破坏纤维表面疏水性的情况下同时提供染色和防缩；对于棉花，该技术可以提供纤维的染色、尺寸稳定性和防水性。该工艺包括(i)将纤维或织物浸泡在含有活性染料、表面活性剂和氢氧化钠的脂肪族二胺水溶液中，（ii）填充以去除多余的液体，（iii）浸泡在水不混溶溶剂中的二酰基氯溶液中，（iv）填充以去除多余的液体，以及(v)洗涤和干燥。在室温下，反应时间在几分钟内发生。表面活性剂用于促进纤维的润湿。羊毛纤维的结果表明,(1)完成压缩一个界面羊毛纤维的接枝聚合,是被证明是非常有效的方法,使羊毛纤维防缩的,(2)纤维的色泽和深度从柔和的深颜色可以任意控制通过改变染料及其数量,(3)纤维的疏水性表面可以由控制二胺的烷基长度和/或diacyl氯,(4)上色的耐光牢度。聚酰胺取决于染料的种类，(5)在不溶于水的溶剂中，即在第二浴中加入染料，可以使羊毛纤维具有类似的功能，但(6)需要对纤维进行后处理，例如，用甲酸（阿尔法聚酰胺的溶剂）进行后处理，以改善上述整理的效果。对棉纤维的初步试验表明，该技术不仅可以作为棉纤维的粉状染色方法，而且可以作为棉纤维或织物尺寸稳定性和防水性的功能性整理。少

SummaryA new technique has been investigated for the functional finishing of natural fibers such as wool and cotton fibers. The principle of this technique is based on the formation of a thin, uniform, colored polymer film, e.g., poly(hexamethylene sebacamide) film, on the fiber surface by an interfacial polycondensation reaction. For wool, this technique may provide the simultaneous dyeing and shrinkproofing without damaging the hydrophobic nature of the fiber surface and for cotton, the dyeing, dimensional stability and water-repellency of fibers.The process involves (i) immersion of fibers or fabrics in an aqueous solution of an aliphatic diamine containing reactive dye, surfactant and sodium hydroxide, (ii) padding to remove excess liquor, (iii) immersion in a solution of diacyl chloride in a water-immiscible solvent, (iv) padding to remove excess liquor, and (v) washing and drying. The reaction time takes place within a few minutes at room temperature. The surfactant is used to fa … More cilitate the wetting of fibers.The results on wool fibers showed that (1) the finishing compresses an interfacial graft polymerization of wool fibers and is proved to be very effective as a method for rendering wool fibers shrinkproof, (2) the color shade and depth of the fibers can be arbitrarily controlled from pastel to deep colors by changing the dye and its amount, (3) the hydrophobic nature at the fiber surface can be maintained by controlling the alkyl lengths of diamine and /or diacyl chloride, (4) the light fastness of colored. polyamides depends on the kind of dyes, (5) similar functions can be rendered to the wool fibers by adding the dye in the water-immiscible solvent, i, e., in the second bath, but (6) the post-treatment of fibers, e.g., the post-treatment with formic acid which is a solvent for alphatic polyamides, is required to improve the effect of the above-mentioned finishes.Preliminary trials on cotton fibers suggested that this technique is also effective not only as a method for pastel dyeing of cotton fibers, but also as a functional finishing for rendering cotton fibers or fabrics dimensional stability and water-repellency. Less