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Academic career development project: establishment of a research group at UCL and publication of a monograph based on my DPhil thesis

学术职业发展项目：在伦敦大学学院成立研究小组并根据我的博士论文出版专着

基本信息

批准号：
ES/T007516/1
负责人：
Julie Valk
金额：
$ 11.36万
依托单位：
University College London
依托单位国家：
英国
项目类别：
Fellowship
财政年份：
2019
资助国家：
英国
起止时间：
2019 至无数据
项目状态：
已结题

来源：
https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=ES%2FT007516%2F1
关键词：
Academic career development project establishment

项目摘要

The proposed purpose of this Fellowship would be to lay the foundations of a career in academia focusing on anthropology and material culture in particular. I propose to use the Fellowship in two ways: Project 1: a research group on the subject of the recycling, storage and disposal of clothingThe goal of the research group, described in the 'objectives' section, would be to bring together academics at UCL and beyond working on issues related to the storage, disposal and recycling of clothing. This is an area of my doctoral research that I encountered while collecting data on collections of kimono in the home in Japan, and I was struck by the universality of the problem of unworn/unused clothing. It has been widely acknowledged in anthropology that a great deal of focus has been placed on the production and consumption of objects. Anthropologists have typically focused on how objects are made and produced, and the way they are used after the specific point of consumption. However, across cultures and social classes, vast amounts of clothing go unworn. The purpose of this group is to explore how people relate to clothes that are not defined by their use value, i.e. that are not worn. This research group would bring together specialists in anthropology working in different cultures to present crosscultural perspectives on strategies people use to manage unwanted clothing, whether that be through disposal, recycling or storage. Anthropology has acknowledged a commitment to exploring the mundane,the everyday, those aspects of culture which are unseen, unacknowledged or taboo, and in recent years there has been an increasingly urgent call for anthropologists to investigate the processes of divestment and disposal. Given the prominent place of clothing in material culture, and its special relation to the body and constructions of personal and social identity, this area is a particularly fascinating and rich terrain to explore.Project 2: a book, to be made ready for publication by the end of the Fellowship, based on my doctoral research and completed DPhil in Anthropology entitled 'Survival or Success? The Kimono Retail Industry in the 21st Century'This book would build on my doctoral research to be the first full-length monograph to explore how the kimono retail industry in contemporary Japanese society is changing in response to the economic crisis of the 1990s and the declining popularity of the kimono as formal wear, leading to falling demand and sales. Based on twelve months of ethnographic fieldwork in Japan and the resulting doctoral thesis, this book aims, firstly, to address the lack of academic literature focused on the kimono, particularly economic aspects of the kimono such as the way it is made, sold and consumed. Secondly, this book aims to highlight the complex forces at work behind the decline of the kimono in Japan, in particular thewider social shifts surrounding marriage and dowry trends, of which kimono were a part up until the 1980s, but also the purpose and meaning of the 'traditional' in a modern industrial society. Identifying the causes will form the first part of the book, and the second will focus on what the consequences of these falling sales are. In this latter half of the book I will examine efforts from within the industry to dynamise and revitalise the industry through new marketing strategies focused on cheaper production methods, marketing based around social media and the careful nurturing of a dedicated market. I will also focus on the tremendous growth of the secondhand market as a result of this decline, since unused kimono have been flooding out of homes and into shops since the 1990s. This book will fill a gap in current scholarship, both on the subject of Japan and in the social sciences more generally, and showcase unprecedented research mapping the complex connections between 'national dress', demographic shifts and socio-economic processes.

该研究金的拟议目的是为在学术界的职业生涯奠定基础，重点是人类学和物质文化。我建议以两种方式使用奖学金：项目1：关于回收，储存和处理衣物的研究小组该研究小组的目标，在“目标”部分中描述，将汇集在UCL和超越工作有关的存储，处理和回收衣物的问题的学者。这是我博士研究的一个领域，我在收集日本家庭中和服收藏的数据时遇到的，我对未穿/未使用的衣服问题的普遍性感到震惊。在人类学中，人们普遍承认，人们把大量的注意力放在物品的生产和消费上。人类学家通常专注于物体是如何制造和生产的，以及在特定消费点之后使用它们的方式。然而，在不同的文化和社会阶层中，大量的衣服都没有穿过。这个小组的目的是探索人们如何与那些不被其使用价值所定义的衣服联系起来，即那些不穿的衣服。这个研究小组将汇集在不同文化中工作的人类学专家，就人们用来管理不需要的衣服的策略提出跨文化的观点，无论是通过处理，回收还是存储。人类学已经认识到，人类致力于探索世俗的、日常的、文化中那些看不见的、不被承认的或禁忌的方面，近年来，越来越迫切地要求人类学家调查撤资和处置的过程。鉴于服装在物质文化中的突出地位，以及它与身体以及个人和社会身份的构建的特殊关系，这一领域是一个特别迷人和丰富的领域。项目2：一本书，将在奖学金结束时出版，基于我的博士研究和完成的人类学博士学位，题为“生存或成功？世纪的和服零售业“这本书是在我博士研究的基础上，第一本探讨当代日本社会的和服零售业如何应对20世纪90年代经济危机和和服作为正式服装的受欢迎程度下降，导致需求和销售下降的专著。基于在日本12个月的民族志田野调查和由此产生的博士论文，本书的目的是，首先，解决缺乏学术文献集中在和服，特别是经济方面的和服，如它的制作，销售和消费的方式。其次，这本书旨在强调在日本和服衰落背后的复杂力量，特别是围绕婚姻和嫁妆趋势的更广泛的社会变化，和服是其中的一部分，直到20世纪80年代，但也是现代工业社会中“传统”的目的和意义。本书的第一部分是找出原因，第二部分将着重于销售下降的后果。在本书的后半部分，我将研究行业内部通过新的营销策略来振兴和振兴行业的努力，这些策略侧重于更便宜的生产方法，基于社交媒体的营销以及精心培育专门的市场。我还将关注由于这种下降而导致的二手市场的巨大增长，因为自20世纪90年代以来，未使用的和服已经从家庭中涌入商店。这本书将填补目前学术界的空白，无论是在日本的主题和社会科学更普遍，并展示前所未有的研究映射之间的复杂联系“民族服装”，人口变化和社会经济进程。