Home clothes construction in the context of sustainable fashion: design strategies for promoting the development and application of basic sewing skill

拟议的以实践为基础的研究将审查业余人士获得缝纫技能的方法。它将测试一系列设计主张，以改进现有的工具和资源，重点是开发可转移的技能和诀窍，以实现更可持续的时尚未来。该项目将调查可供业余制作者使用的历史和当代工具和资源(包括纸样、《如何》指南、工具包和在线教程)，以开发资源类型学。将利用参与性讲习班和反思的参与者日记，就这些资源的用户体验以及缝纫技能的获得和应用获得反馈。将为替代工具包/资源生成一系列建议设计，并与参与者一起进行测试，并根据用户反馈进行调整。预计参与者将在时尚革命的支持下招募。这项研究建立在对缝纫、工艺技能和服装制作的终身兴趣基础上。作为一名设计师和制造商，我敏锐地意识到，随着时间的推移，工艺知识是如何影响我与服装的关系的。正是拥有这些技能，我才能接触到衣服(新的、自制的或二手的)，以延长它们的寿命，以及相关的实用和情感耐用性和价值(Chapman，2015；Townsend&Sadkowska，2018)。因此，我认为缝纫技能是当代有价值的技术诀窍和可持续时尚激进主义的一种形式，而不是人们通常认为的怀旧的前女权主义追求(贝恩，2016)。业余制作有可能重新将工艺、制作和使用的概念重新联系起来，这些概念已经在快速时尚的混战中大量丧失。我的硕士研究重点是纺织印花设计中的手工和数字处理。我对自己的工艺实践进行了仔细的调查，从而对工艺技能的具体性质有了明智的实践和理论理解，这为我的硕士论文和随后在Making Futures 2017国际学术会议上提交的同行评议论文奠定了基础。自毕业以来，我将缝纫知识和印花纺织品设计技能结合在一起，为初学者创造了一系列平板裁剪缝纫工具包。这些工具包的设计和测试提供了第二篇同行评议论文(上文讨论)，该论文洞察了缝纫技能获得的动态以及支持这一点的替代工具的潜力。拟议的博士研究将使人们能够对这些问题进行更根本的评估，并允许以投机性和实验设计为导向的方法来应对这些问题。近几十年来，人们对家用缝纫的兴趣重新抬头(贝恩，2016)。可持续时尚研究关注穿着者的消费和使用行为(Fletcher，2016；Twigger Holroyd，2017)，强调了业余缝纫技能对可持续时尚体系的重要性。然而，基本的缝纫技能不再是在家里或学校传授的常规技能，这意味着他们的获得比以往任何时候都更加依赖于远程学习和初学者可用的工具/资源。虽然新的线上和线下资源已经出现，以回应这种日益增长的兴趣，但它们在多大程度上适应了较低的一般缝纫知识水平和/或新的潜在受众，这是值得怀疑的。这项研究的主要目的是了解：在缝制服装的家居建造中，基本技能是什么？是什么帮助初学者获得这些技能？这些技能的发展和应用对下水道与衣服的关系有何影响？总体来说？这项研究将借鉴以下文献：手工艺技能和默会知识(Palanyi，1966；Pye，1968；Sennett，2009；Wood，2006)；支持学习/技能获得的脚手架(Wass&Golding，2014)；手工艺消费(Campbell，2005；Watson&Shve，2008)；以及‘Pro-Sumption’(Knot，

The proposed practice-based research will examine the means by which amateurs acquire sewing skills. It will test a series of design propositions to improve on the tools and resources already available, with an emphasis on the development of transferable skills and know-how toward more sustainable fashion futures. The project will investigate the historical and contemporary tools and resources available to amateur makers (including paper patterns, 'how to' guides, kits and online tutorials) to develop a typology of resources. Participatory workshops and reflective participant diaries will be used to gain feedback on user experience of these resources and the acquisition and application of sewing skills. A series of propositional designs for alternative kits/resources will be generated, tested with participants and adapted based on user feedback. It is anticipated that participants will be recruited with the support of Fashion Revolution.This study builds on a lifelong interest in sewing, craft skill and the making of clothes. As a designer and maker I am acutely aware of how craft knowledge has informed my relationship with clothing over time. It is possession of these skills that enables me to engage with clothes (new, homemade or second-hand) in ways that extend their longevity and associated practical and emotional durability and value (Chapman, 2015; Townsend & Sadkowska, 2018). Consequently, I see sewing skills as valuable contemporary know-how and a form of sustainable fashion activism rather than the nostalgic pre-feminist pursuit it is often presumed to be (Bain, 2016). Amateur making has the potential to reconnect ideas of craft, making and use that have been substantially lost in the 'fast fashion' melee. My MA research focused on hand and digital processes in textile print design. Close investigation of my own craft practice led to an informed practical and theoretical understanding of the embodied nature of craft skill, which informed my MA dissertation and a subsequent peer-reviewed paper presented at the Making Futures 2017 international academic conference. Since graduation I have combined my sewing knowledge and printed-textile design skills to create a range of flat-pack cut-and-sew kits for beginners. The design and testing of these kits informed a second peer-reviewed paper (discussed above), which provided insight into the dynamics of sewing skill acquisition and potential for alternative tools to support this. The proposed PhD study would enable a much more fundamental evaluation of these issues and allow for a speculative and experimental design-led approach in responding to them.Recent decades have seen a resurgence of interest in home sewing (Bain, 2016). Sustainable fashion research, focusing on wearers' consumption and use behaviour (Fletcher, 2016; Twigger Holroyd, 2017), highlights the importance of amateur sewing skills for a sustainable fashion system. However, basic sewing skills are no longer routinely passed on at home or school, meaning their acquisition is more dependent than ever on remote learning and the tools/resources available to beginners. While new online and offline resources have emerged in response to this increased interest, the extent to which they accommodate lower general levels of sewing knowledge and/or new potential audiences is questionable. The primary aims of this research are to understand: What constitutes basic skills in the home construction of sewn clothing? What helps beginners to acquire these skills? And how does the development and application of these skills impact on the sewer's relationship with their clothes more generally?generally? The research will draw on literature addressing: craft skill and tacit knowledge (Palanyi, 1966; Pye, 1968; Sennett, 2009; Wood, 2006); the scaffolding that supports learning/skill acquisition (Wass & Golding, 2014); craft consumption (Campbell, 2005; Watson & Shove, 2008); and 'pro-sumption' (Knot,