Bejewelled Identities: 'Aesth/Ethic' Jewels in the Portrayal of Identity in Sixteenth Century Venice

宝石迷阵的身份：十六世纪威尼斯身份描绘中的“美学/伦理”珠宝

• 批准号: 2881897
• 金额: --
• 依托单位: University of Warwick
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Studentship
• 财政年份: 2023
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2023 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 未结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=studentship-2881897
• 关键词: Bejewelled; Identities; Aesth; Ethic; Jewels

The acquisition and wearing of jewels in Renaissance Italy have been repeatedly considered the product of decadence, bringing about the assumption that the function of jewellery in portraiture was to elicit and indulge the viewer's eye (Simon, 1988). The association of jewellery with material gluttony and lasciviousness has been exacerbated by accompanying 'justifications' for sumptuary laws that sought, with little success, to restrict adornment in jewels claiming they encouraged moral laxity. These 'justifications' are now understood to be little better than excuses to mask an overarching aim to reinstate a visible social hierarchy (Newton, 1988; Howell, 2010). However, jewels have not received critical reconsideration and continue to be perceived as inert frivolous ornamentation, thus causing scholars to completely overlook the material agency of these artefacts.I seek to pioneer an innovative interdisciplinary study that firstly investigates the semantic specificity and material agency of jewels and secondly reconsiders jewels as active components in the representation of identity within portraiture, with focus on sixteenth century Venice. Venice was a European capital for publishing and the production of luxury goods (Lanaro, 2006), making it the optimal locality to investigate this intersection between literary, material and artistic cultures.There are three principal underpinning research questions:-What agencies did specific jewels possess and how were jewels believed to exert their agency?-How did the setting, wearing and display of jewels recognise and harness their perceived agency?-How did artists employ and experiment with the material agency of jewels to portray and modifyperceived identity in portraiture?

文艺复兴时期意大利对珠宝的购买和佩戴一再被认为是颓废的产物，从而产生了这样的假设：肖像画中珠宝的功能是吸引和放纵观看者的眼睛（Simon，1988）。奢侈法的“理由”加剧了珠宝与物质贪婪和淫荡的联系，这些法律试图限制珠宝装饰，声称它们鼓励道德懈怠，但收效甚微。这些“理由”现在被认为只不过是掩盖恢复可见社会等级的总体目标的借口（Newton，1988；Howell，2010）。然而，珠宝并没有受到批判性的重新考虑，并继续被视为惰性、琐碎的装饰，从而导致学者们完全忽视了这些文物的物质机构。我寻求开创一项创新的跨学科研究，首先调查珠宝的语义特异性和物质机构，其次重新考虑珠宝作为肖像画中身份表征的积极组成部分，重点关注十六世纪的威尼斯。威尼斯是欧洲的出版和奢侈品生产之都（Lanaro，2006），使其成为研究文学、物质和艺术文化之间这种交集的最佳地点。研究存在三个主要的基础问题：-特定珠宝拥有哪些媒介以及人们认为珠宝如何发挥其媒介？-珠宝的镶嵌、佩戴和展示如何识别和利用其感知媒介？-艺术家如何运用和实验 借助珠宝的物质媒介来描绘和修改肖像画中的感知身份？