Searching for the New Woman in Nottingham: Cycling, Fashion and Feminism (1885-1925)

背景：这个项目是第一个研究“新女性”的视觉表现，并将新女性定位在诺丁汉。结合时尚历史与视觉和物质文化分析，我的博士评估了诺丁汉丰富的自行车历史和女性劳动力对女权主义运动和新女性话语的价值。作为一段争论激烈但研究不足的女权主义历史，“新女性”既是第一波女权主义的象征，也是“新”威胁的象征，她的“男性化”时尚和受过教育的国家威胁着父权制度。诺丁汉——一个“明显女性化的现代城市”（丹尼尔斯和莱克罗夫特，1993年）——拥有女权主义激进主义的历史（罗伯茨，2022年）和强大、勤奋的女性劳动力，是理想的地点。诺丁汉市档案馆（包括罗利、约翰·普莱尔）保存着大量的照片、广告和剪报，这些资料在新女性的历史编纂中被忽视了。对这些材料的初步研究表明，它将“新女性”呈现为一种独特的自我重塑的现代理想，挑战了主导史学的负面形象，并纠正了这一时期对女性学术理解中“酷”的缺失。我的项目支持艺术和人文学科的批判性工作，检索不同的历史，挑战既有的包容和排斥模式。关键问题：新女性在总体上和在诺丁汉的视觉表现是什么？新女性在1885-1925年间对诺丁汉的女性化地位和工业有何贡献？关于全国和地方对新女性的文化接受，视觉证据揭示了什么？23诺丁汉丰富的自行车历史和新女性与更广泛的女权主义事业有关吗？诺丁汉的女性劳动力是否通过时尚、体育活动和政治信仰体现了新女性？方法：-定性分析重点档案，包括广告、营销、宣传材料/剪报、照片。- 1885-1925年间女权运动关键时刻的案例研究。-开发编码视觉数据库，以支持视觉能指的量化和内容分析。-框架分析，以组织、构建和区分关于女权主义、新女性和女性骑行的话语（戈夫曼，1974）。影响：对“新女性”的不同观点有更全面的认识和理解，对女权主义历史和更广泛的女性身份问题至关重要。关注自行车在这一愿景中的表现，是探索这一时期女性的能动性和力量，以及设计和技术所扮演的角色的一种新方式。罗利在19世纪90年代将自行车描述为“自由机器”（罗利，2022年）。然而，骑自行车的新女性面临着深刻的社会反对，包括骑自行车危及她们的生殖潜力的争论（Jungnickel, 2018）。今天，英国仍然远远落后于欧洲国家，每4个骑行者中只有1个是女性（CyclingUK, 2022）。女性自行车运动存在信心差距，而不是能力差距，部分原因是女性仍然承受着保持女性气质的文化压力（CyclingUK, 2017）。通过诺丁汉新女性的新历史，该项目以公共展览为高潮，挑战了围绕女性、自行车和女性气质的持续矛盾。时间表（月）：1-6：入职，编码培训和档案工作（数据收集和组织）6-12：与主要档案馆(约翰·普莱纳，罗利，诺丁汉市（摄影集）密切合作12-24：进行实地考察，章节计划，数据分析，审查迄今为止的工作（确定知识中的任何剩余差距）。24-30：会议论文、章节起草、展览策划。30-36：章节起草、展览策划、评审。36-42：章节起草/修订。年代

Context:This project is the first to examine the visual representations of the embodied 'New Woman' and tolocate the New Woman in Nottingham. Combining fashion history with visual and material culturalanalysis, my PhD assesses the value of Nottingham's rich history of cycling and the female workforce tothe feminist movement and New Woman discourses. A hotly contested yet under-researched construct infeminist history, the New Woman was simultaneously an icon of first-wave feminism and symbolic of thethreat of the 'new', her 'mannish' fashions and educated state threatened patriarchal systems.Nottingham - a 'distinctly feminised version of a modern city' (Daniels & Rycroft,1993) - with its historyof feminist activism (Roberts, 2022) and strong, industrious female workforce is the ideal locus.Nottingham City Archives (including Raleigh, John Player) holds numerous photographs, advertisements,and press-cuttings, sources overlooked in the historiography of the New Woman. A pilot study of thismaterial suggests that it presents the New Woman as a distinctly modern ideal of self-refashioning,challenging the negative imagery that dominates the historiography and redressing the absence of'coolness' in academic understanding of women of this period. My project supports critical work in artsand humanities retrieving diverse histories and challenging established models of inclusion andexclusion.Key Questions:What were the visual manifestations of the New Woman, both generally and within Nottingham?How did the New Woman contribute to Nottingham's feminised status and industries 1885-1925?What does visual evidence reveal about the cultural reception of the New Woman nationally and locally?7 / 23Did Nottingham's rich cycling history and the New Woman relate to the wider feminist cause?Did Nottingham's female workforce embody the New Woman through fashion, physical activity andpolitical belief?Methods:-Qualitative analysis of key archives, including advertising, marketing, promotional material/presscuttings, photographs.-Case studies of key moments within the feminist movement between 1885-1925.-Develop a coded visual database to support quantification and content analysis of visual signifiers.-Frame analysis to organise, construct, and differentiate discourses regarding feminisms, the NewWoman and female cycling (Goffman, 1974).Impact:Fuller knowledge and understanding of the competing visions of the New Woman is critical to feministhistories and wider questions of women's identity. Focus on the representation of cycling in such visionsis a new way to explore the agency and power of women in this period and the role played by design andtechnology. Raleigh described bikes as 'freedom machines' in the 1890's (Raleigh, 2022). Yet the cyclingNew Woman faced profound societal opposition, including the contention that cycling jeopardised theirreproductive potential (Jungnickel, 2018). Today the UK remains much further behind European countries,with just one cycling trip made by a woman for every 4 by a man (CyclingUK, 2022). There's aconfidence - not competence - gap in women's cycling due, partly, to cultural pressure still placed uponwomen to maintain their femininity (CyclingUK, 2017). Through a new history of Nottingham's NewWomen culminating with a public exhibition, this project challenges continuing contradictionssurrounding women, cycling, and femininity.Timeline (Months):1-6: Induction, training in coding and working with archives (data collection and organisation)6-12: Work closely with key archives (John Player, Raleigh, Nottingham City (photographic collections)12-24: Conduct site visits, chapter plan, data analysis, review work to date (identify any remaining gapswithin knowledge).24-30: Conference papers, chapter drafting, exhibition planning.30-36: Chapter drafting, exhibition planning cont., review.36-42: Chapter drafting/revisions. S