'Sextiles' - twelve critically-creative essays examining how textiles mobilise, mimic and masquerade sex...

“六分相”——十二篇批判性创意文章探讨纺织品如何调动、模仿和伪装性……

• 批准号: AH/E50891X/2
• 负责人: Catherine Harper
• 金额: $ 1.29万
• 依托单位: University of Brighton
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Research Grant
• 财政年份: 2007
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2007 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=AH%2FE50891X%2F2
• 关键词: Sextiles; twelve; critically; creative; essays

This project originally proposed 12 essays examining how textiles as thread, fabric, garment or artefact could mobilise, mimic and masquerade sex. Sex was configured in this context as both a series of practices and a range of anatomical expressions. In fact, shortly after the project began, Berg Publishers - who published my first book, 'Intersex', in 2007 - commissioned a book based on this research, and the essays have become 12 chapters for a forthcoming book titled 'Fabrics of Desire' to be published by Berg, Oxford, in 2009. During the project's development, a number of texts have been published or accepted for publication. Most notable are a chapter for the University of Technology, Sydney's forth coming book titled 'Fashion in Fiction', and a 6000 word essay titled 'I found myself inside her fur' for a special 'Skin' issue of the international, peer-reviewed Textile: the Journal of Cloth and Culture, guest-edited by Caryn Simonson of Chelsea College of Art and Design.This project has afforded me the possibility of formally aligning my range of research engagements as writer and textile practitioner and of making a significant, informed and original contribution to a field not yet fully explored. The opportunity to publish this as a singular output, which is in book form, rather than in a disparate form, is especially important, and the book's format (80,000 words in 12 chapters) has allowed me to work with the relationships between individual chapters and the authorial voice used in each.The project sought to examine distinct areas within which textiles and sex relate (for example, through 'gendered' garments; symbolic costume; meaningful fabrication; fetish restraint; body moderation; bed-linen; textile signification; seductive materiality; or anatomical mimicry). Each of the personally selected fields of enquiry have been examined using a Delusion methodology based on 'lateral proliferation' of text, and through scrutiny and interpretation of exhibited and archived visual / textile art and design practice; textile artefacts; textiles in literature and film; etc. Each text has been constructed idiosyncratically in relation to its own 'voice' based on content and structure. This is in keeping with my interest in creative / critical / performative / academic / reflective writing.Dissemination has been via publication through national and international refereed journals within textile and visual culture, and through conference presentations and public lectures in Ireland, UK, Australia and the USA. Notably, the book commission (Berg) that has been secured based on this research, and consequently some of the research activity undertaken through AHRC support, will be publicly disseminated in that form in 2009.This proposal was carefully defined in relation to both personal and external contexts and personal research aspirations. It has enabled me to maximise the potential of previous research outputs in textile practice and text in an innovative and substantial project, and has permitted on going contribution to my subject discipline of textile culture and practice.Significantly, it has sharpened the specific focus of my research, and the project management experience gained has matured my approach to personal research management, articulation of research aims, and my understanding of what is achievable within particular time frames. During the project I made a very significant career change from Reader in Textiles in one institution to Head of the School of Architecture and Design at University of Brighton. This inevitably impacted on my rate of production within the project, and I have most importantly discovered a new mode of operation through the use of Research Assistants supported through this funding. This has provided a new method for my research and ensures that I can remain research active even within this new and demanding role, albeit with a somewhat shifted pace of production.

该项目最初提出了 12 篇论文，研究纺织品作为线、织物、服装或人工制品如何调动、模仿和伪装性。在这种背景下，性被配置为一系列实践和一系列解剖学表达。事实上，在该项目开始后不久，伯格出版社（2007 年出版了我的第一本书《双性人》）委托根据这项研究编写了一本书籍，这些文章已成为即将于 2009 年由牛津伯格出版的名为《欲望的结构》的书的 12 章。在该项目的开发过程中，许多文本已出版或接受出版。最值得注意的是悉尼科技大学即将出版的名为“小说中的时尚”的书的一章，以及一篇题为“我发现自己在她的毛皮里”的 6000 字文章，该文章是为国际同行评审的《纺织：布料与文化杂志》特刊的“皮肤”特刊而写的，该期刊由切尔西艺术与设计学院的 Caryn Simonson 客座编辑。这个项目使我有可能将我的研究工作范围正式调整为 作家和纺织从业者，并为尚未充分探索的领域做出了重大、见多识广和原创的贡献。以书的形式而不是以不同的形式出版此书的机会尤其重要，这本书的格式（12 章 80,000 字）使我能够处理各个章节之间的关系以及每个章节中使用的作者声音。该项目试图研究纺织品与性别相关的不同领域（例如，通过“性别”服装；象征性服装；有意义的制造；恋物癖约束；身体节制；等等）。 床单；纺织意义；诱人的物质性；或解剖模仿）。每个个人选择的调查领域都使用基于文本“横向扩散”的妄想方法进行了检查，并通过对展出和存档的视觉/纺织艺术和设计实践的审查和解释；纺织工艺品；文学和电影中的纺织品；每个文本都是根据其基于内容和结构的“声音”而独特构建的。这符合我对创意/批判/表演/学术/反思写作的兴趣。传播是通过纺织和视觉文化领域的国内和国际参考期刊出版，以及通过在爱尔兰、英国、澳大利亚和美国的会议演讲和公开讲座进行的。值得注意的是，基于这项研究而获得的图书委员会 (Berg)，以及随后通过 AHRC 支持开展的一些研究活动，将于 2009 年以这种形式公开传播。该提案是根据个人和外部背景以及个人研究愿望进行仔细定义的。它使我能够在一个创新和实质性的项目中最大限度地发挥以前在纺织实践和文本方面的研究成果的潜力，并允许继续为我的纺织文化和实践学科做出贡献。重要的是，它使我的研究更加明确，并且获得的项目管理经验使我的个人研究管理方法、研究目标的阐明以及我对特定时间范围内可实现的目标的理解更加成熟。在该项目期间，我做出了非常重大的职业转变，从一所机构的纺织专业读者变成了布莱顿大学建筑与设计学院院长。这不可避免地影响了我在项目中的生产率，最重要的是，我通过使用这笔资金支持的研究助理发现了一种新的运作模式。这为我的研究提供了一种新方法，并确保我即使在这个新的、要求很高的角色中也能保持研究活跃，尽管生产节奏有所改变。