'Sextiles' - twelve critically-creative essays examining how textiles mobilise, mimic and masquerade sex...

“六分相”——十二篇批判性创意文章探讨纺织品如何调动、模仿和伪装性……

• 批准号: AH/E50891X/1
• 负责人: Catherine Harper
• 金额: $ 2.06万
• 依托单位: University for the Creative Arts
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Research Grant
• 财政年份: 2006
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2006 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=AH%2FE50891X%2F1
• 关键词: Sextiles; twelve; critically; creative; essays

This project originally proposed 12 essays examining how textiles as thread, fabric, garment or artefact could mobilise, mimic and masquerade sex. Sex was configured in this context as both a series of practices and a range of anatomical expressions. In fact, shortly after the project began, Berg Publishers - who published my first book, 'Intersex', in 2007 - commissioned a book based on this research, and the essays have become 12 chapters for a forthcoming book titled 'Fabrics of Desire' to be published by Berg, Oxford, in 2009. During the project's development, a number of texts have been published or accepted for publication. Most notable are a chapter for the University of Technology, Sydney's forth coming book titled 'Fashion in Fiction', and a 6000 word essay titled 'I found myself inside her fur' for a special 'Skin' issue of the international, peer-reviewed Textile: the Journal of Cloth and Culture, guest-edited by Caryn Simonson of Chelsea College of Art and Design.This project has afforded me the possibility of formally aligning my range of research engagements as writer and textile practitioner and of making a significant, informed and original contribution to a field not yet fully explored. The opportunity to publish this as a singular output, which is in book form, rather than in a disparate form, is especially important, and the book's format (80,000 words in 12 chapters) has allowed me to work with the relationships between individual chapters and the authorial voice used in each.The project sought to examine distinct areas within which textiles and sex relate (for example, through 'gendered' garments; symbolic costume; meaningful fabrication; fetish restraint; body moderation; bed-linen; textile signification; seductive materiality; or anatomical mimicry). Each of the personally selected fields of enquiry have been examined using a Delusion methodology based on 'lateral proliferation' of text, and through scrutiny and interpretation of exhibited and archived visual / textile art and design practice; textile artefacts; textiles in literature and film; etc. Each text has been constructed idiosyncratically in relation to its own 'voice' based on content and structure. This is in keeping with my interest in creative / critical / performative / academic / reflective writing.Dissemination has been via publication through national and international refereed journals within textile and visual culture, and through conference presentations and public lectures in Ireland, UK, Australia and the USA. Notably, the book commission (Berg) that has been secured based on this research, and consequently some of the research activity undertaken through AHRC support, will be publicly disseminated in that form in 2009.This proposal was carefully defined in relation to both personal and external contexts and personal research aspirations. It has enabled me to maximise the potential of previous research outputs in textile practice and text in an innovative and substantial project, and has permitted on going contribution to my subject discipline of textile culture and practice.Significantly, it has sharpened the specific focus of my research, and the project management experience gained has matured my approach to personal research management, articulation of research aims, and my understanding of what is achievable within particular time frames. During the project I made a very significant career change from Reader in Textiles in one institution to Head of the School of Architecture and Design at University of Brighton. This inevitably impacted on my rate of production within the project, and I have most importantly discovered a new mode of operation through the use of Research Assistants supported through this funding. This has provided a new method for my research and ensures that I can remain research active even within this new and demanding role, albeit with a somewhat shifted pace of production.

该项目最初提出了12篇论文，研究纺织品如线，织物，服装或人工制品如何动员，模仿和伪装性。在这种背景下，性被配置为一系列的实践和一系列的解剖学表达。事实上，在这个项目开始后不久，贝格出版社--2007年出版了我的第一本书《中间性者》--就根据这项研究委托出版了一本书，这些文章已经成为即将出版的《欲望的结构》一书的12个章节，该书将于2009年由牛津大学的贝格出版社出版。在该项目的发展过程中，一些文本已经出版或接受出版。最值得注意的是科技大学的一个章节，悉尼即将出版的书名为“小说中的时尚”，以及一篇6000字的文章，题为“我发现自己在她的皮毛中”，为国际同行评审的纺织品的特别“皮肤”问题：《布料与文化杂志》客人-由切尔西艺术与设计学院的Caryn Simonson编辑。这个项目为我提供了正式调整我作为作家和纺织从业者和作出重大的，知情的和原始的贡献，一个领域尚未充分探索。有机会出版这作为一个单一的输出，这是在书的形式，而不是在一个不同的形式，是特别重要的，这本书的格式（12章80，000字）使我能够处理各个章节与每个章节中使用的作者声音之间的关系。该项目试图研究纺织品与性相关的不同领域（例如，通过“性别化”服装;象征性服装;有意义的制造;恋物癖约束;身体适度;床单;纺织品意义;诱人的物质性;或解剖学模仿）。每一个调查的个人选择的领域已使用Delaware方法的基础上“横向扩散”的文本，并通过审查和展出和存档的视觉/纺织艺术和设计实践的解释进行了检查;纺织品人工制品;纺织品在文学和电影;等每个文本已被构造在其自己的“声音”的基础上的内容和结构的特质。这与我对创造性/批判性/表演性/学术性/反思性写作的兴趣一致。传播是通过在纺织和视觉文化领域的国家和国际期刊上发表文章，以及通过在爱尔兰，英国，澳大利亚和美国的会议演讲和公开讲座。值得注意的是，根据这项研究获得的图书佣金（贝格），以及随后通过澳大利亚人权委员会支持开展的一些研究活动，将在2009年以这种形式公开传播。它使我能够在一个创新和实质性的项目中最大限度地发挥以前在纺织实践和文本方面的研究成果的潜力，并使我能够继续为我的纺织文化和实践学科做出贡献。重要的是，它使我的研究更加集中，获得的项目管理经验使我的个人研究管理方法更加成熟，研究目标的表达，以及我对特定时间框架内可实现目标的理解。在这个项目中，我从一个机构的纺织品读者到布莱顿大学建筑与设计学院的负责人进行了非常重要的职业转变。这不可避免地影响了我在项目中的生产率，最重要的是，我通过使用这笔资金支持的研究助理发现了一种新的运作模式。这为我的研究提供了一种新的方法，并确保我即使在这个新的和苛刻的角色中也能保持研究活跃，尽管生产速度有所改变。

项目成果

The Very Recent Fall and Rise of Harris Tweed

哈里斯花呢最近的衰落和崛起

• DOI: 10.2752/175183512x13267336595151
• 发表时间: 2015
• 期刊: TEXTILE
• 影响因子: 0.3
• 作者: Harper C

Pecha Cucha: Lace

Pecha Cucha：蕾丝

• DOI: 10.2752/175183508x327767
• 发表时间: 2015
• 期刊: TEXTILE
• 影响因子: 0.3
• 作者: Harper C

I Found Myself inside Her Fur

我发现自己在她的毛皮里

• DOI: 10.2752/175183508x377609
• 发表时间: 2015
• 期刊: TEXTILE
• 影响因子: 0.3
• 作者: Harper C