本项目旨在研究风暴潮作用下的沙质岸滩剖面实时演变动态调整机制。风暴潮发生过程中，波浪和水位皆呈动态改变，并非目前多数物理模型试验研究中持续不变情况。波浪强度与海水水位的变化，会导致波浪特性、质点速度轨迹、低频波以及能量传播等发生变化。由于动力特性的变化，水流的垂向结构、作用于海滩床面的底部应力和波浪爬高等也都会随之调整，势必会对悬移质和推移质输沙产生显著影响，进而直接影响到岸滩剖面形态的调整规律。因此，本项目拟围绕着风暴潮作用期间的沙质岸滩剖面动态调整机制，集中解决如下问题：（1）风暴潮作用期间沙质岸滩剖面实时调整过程的物理模型试验方法；（2）风暴潮作用期间向离岸的非恒定泥沙运动规律；（3）发展基于RANS求解基础上的沙质岸滩剖面演变预测模拟技术；（4）风暴潮作用期间的沙质岸滩剖面实时调整机制。成果将更深入揭示风暴潮作用下的沙质岸滩剖面动态响应机理，更加准确预测沙质岸滩剖面冲淤演变规律。

The application focus on study on real-time evolution of sandy beach profiles under storm surge. During storm surge, wave and sea level keep variable. However, most of physical experiments assume constant wave and sea level during whole experimental process. With wave and sea level changing, wave, particle velocity, infragrivity wave and wave energy transportation et al will change accordingly. Then, vertical structure of current velocity, bottom shear stress and wave runup will change too accordingly. The changes mentioned above affect the evolution rules of sandy beach profiles through influencing suspended load, bedload and erosion of sandy beach berm and so on. So the present application pays much attention on the following four issues:(1)Study on methods of physical experiment for real-time evolution of sandy beach profiles; (2)Sand transportation rules in cross beach direction during storm surge; (3) Development of sediment numerical modeling technology based on RANS; (4) Rules of real-time evolution of beach profiles during storm surge.The studies mentioned above will discover the mechanism of sand beach profile evolution induced by storm surge and provide more accurate numerical model to predict beach topography evolution.